anything goes with emma chamberlain - 培养个人风格,建议专场 封面

培养个人风格,建议专场

developing personal style, advice session

本集简介

[视频可在Spotify观看]欢迎回到《答疑时间》,这是《随心所欲》系列中的一档节目,你可以提交当前遇到的困境或任何想寻求建议的问题,我会给出非专业的建议。今天的主题是个人风格。按下录制键前我大概该用粘毛器整理一下的...哈哈。 eBay是选购二手与复古时尚的绝佳平台。 了解更多广告选择,请访问podcastchoices.com/adchoices

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仅展示文本字幕,不包含中文音频;想边听边看,请使用 Bayt 播客 App。

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欢迎回到建议环节,这是我们‘随心所欲’系列的一部分,你可以提交当前遇到的困境或任何需要建议的事情,然后我会给你非专业的建议。今天的主题是个人风格,我觉得这是个复杂的话题,因为个人风格某种程度上是无法定义的。虽然‘个人风格’这个词有定义,但个人风格本身是难以界定的。它对于穿衣服的人来说是独特的,对于拥有这种风格的人来说是独一无二的。

Welcome back to advice session, a series here on anything goes where you send in your current dilemmas or anything that you want advice on, and then I give you my unprofessional advice. And today's topic is personal style, which I find to be a complex topic because personal style is sort of undefinable. Like, there is a definition for the term personal style, but personal style is undefinable. It's unique to the person wearing the clothing. It's unique to the person who has the style.

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这正是关键所在。因此,这使得讨论变得有些复杂。没有个人风格的指南,因为只有你自己才能找到你的个人风格。我的意思是,虽然可以给出一些关于如何发现个人风格的小技巧,但没有一步一步的指南,因为这是一种非常个人化的体验和表达形式。但我要说的是,随着潮流周期的加速,个人风格这个话题变得更加复杂,导致喜欢时尚的人感到疲惫,以至于现在个人风格本身成了一种潮流,作为对无法跟上潮流周期的回应,这在某种程度上违背了个人风格的整个理念。

That's the whole point. And so that's what makes it sort of complicated to discuss. There's no guide to personal style because only you can figure out your personal style. I mean, one can give tips and tricks on how to discover one's personal style, but there's no step by step guide because it's such a personal experience and such a personal form of expression. But I will say the topic of personal style has only become more complicated as trend cycles have sped up, causing fatigue among people who enjoy fashion to the point where now personal style has become a trend as a response to trend cycles being impossible to keep up with, which kind of goes against the entire ethos of what personal style is.

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因为个人风格的重点在于它拒绝潮流。它是个人性格和品味的独特体现。但现在个人风格成了一种潮流,个人风格是什么变得更加难以定义、指出或识别。因为有些人抓住了这种个人风格的潮流,并在其中找到了自我。但也有一些人决定模仿网络上那些有非常独特个人风格的人,然后将其标榜为自己的个人风格,如果这说得通的话。

Because the whole point of personal style is that it rejects trends. It's unique to one's own character and taste. But now that personal style is a trend, what personal style is has become even harder to define, to point out, to recognize. Because there are certain people out there who have taken this sort of trend of personal style and found themselves in it. But there's also some people who have decided to copy people on the Internet who have a very distinct personal style and then label that as their own personal style, if that makes sense.

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我并不认为这有什么错。对吧?比如,我不认为追随潮流在道德上有什么问题。我真的不这么认为。如果这对你来说是一种爱好,是你真正热衷、真正兴奋的事情,并且从消费者的角度来看,你可以以某种负责任的方式去做,比如不过度消费之类的。

And I don't think there's anything wrong with that. Right? Like, I don't I don't think there's anything morally wrong with following trends. I really don't. Like, if that's a hobby for you, if that's something you're really passionate about, really excited about, and something that you can do somewhat responsibly from a consumer perspective, like not over consuming or whatever.

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即使你过度消费了,我又有什么资格评判呢?我不会告诉人们该做什么或什么是对错。这不是我的位置。但我说这些的重点是,个人风格这个话题变得比以往任何时候都更加复杂,因为个人风格的概念现在很时髦,如果这说得通的话。本期节目由eBay赞助播出。

Even if you're over who am I to judge? I I'm not gonna tell people what to do or what's right and wrong. Like, I I just it's not my place. But my point in saying all of this is personal style has become more complicated of a topic than ever because the concept of personal style is trendy, if that makes sense. This episode is presented to you by eBay.

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我们都有那样一件单品。你知道的,就是那件非常‘你’的东西,你几乎因此而出名。如果你还没有找到属于你的那件,你会在eBay上找到它。让我来给你们指条明路吧,各位。

We all have that piece. You know the one. The thing that's so you, you've basically become known for it. And if you don't have yours yet, you'll find it on eBay. Let me put you on, people.

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eBay是你找到那些独一无二、让你忍不住反复研究、熬夜梦寐以求的单品的地方。我说的就是那件你一直关注的T台红色皮夹克、那件印有牛仔图案的潮流上衣,或是2017年配色系列的时尚抓绒衣。所有这些宝贝都在eBay上,他们还提供数百万件主角单品,并附有真实性保证。eBay是二手和复古时尚的天堂。eBay,人们喜爱的东西。

EBay is where you'll find those one of a kind, can't stop researching, stay up dreaming about pieces again and again. I'm talking about that off the runway red leather bomber you've had your eye on, the trendy top with the cowboy on it, or that sleek fleece from the 2017 colorway. All of these finds are on eBay, and they even offer millions of main character pieces backed by authenticity guarantee. EBay is the place for pre loved and vintage fashion. EBay, things people love.

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我愿意相信自己已经找到了个人风格。我确实这么认为。过去几年里,我经历了审视衣橱、分析风格、承认它有点混乱的历程。我衣服太多,却没有明确的风格定义,只是随便穿穿而已。

I like to believe that I've found my personal style. I would like to believe that. I went through this journey over the last few years of looking at my closet, analyzing my style, acknowledging that it's sort of a hot mess. I had way too many clothes, and I had no defined sense of style. I just kind of would wear whatever.

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我过去就像往墙上乱扔东西看哪些能粘住。我囤积大量衣物只为获得最大穿搭选择,每天都能穿出独特造型。但这适得其反,效果不佳,半数时间我对自己穿搭并不满意。我还意识到拥有过多衣物存在无数弊端。于是清理衣橱时——没开玩笑——我扔掉了90%的衣服,真正定义了我现阶段的人生风格。

I would kinda just throw shit at the wall and see if it stuck. I collected a large amount of clothing to give me maximum options when getting dressed so that every day I could wear something completely unique. But it sort of backfired, didn't really work out, just left me wearing outfits half the time that I wasn't really happy with. And I also came to the conclusion that having that many pieces of clothing was toxic and bad for a bazillion different reasons. And so I went through my closet, got rid of, I'm not kidding, 90% of the clothes that I had, and really defined what my personal style is at this point in my life.

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对此我相当自信。感觉这是有史以来最稳定的风格,但并非百分百确定已完全领悟。尽管对当前个人风格有清晰认知,但我还年轻,五年后的喜好谁说得准?可能保持稳定,也可能彻底改变。

And I feel pretty confident in it. Like, I feel like it's the most consistent it's ever been, but I'm not 100% sure that I have it all figured out. Even though I feel like I have a good sense of what my personal style is today, I'm young, and who knows what I'm gonna like in five years. It might remain consistent. It might completely change.

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或许五年后我会恍然:哦等等,这才是我的个人风格。谁知道呢?所以我不认为已完全参透,但确实比以往任何时候都更明确——具体体现在:我的衣橱有特定配色方案。

And I might, five years down the line, realize, oh, wait. Now this is my personal style. Who knows? So I don't think I have it all figured out, but I definitely have it more figured out now than I ever have before in a very tangible way. Like, my closet, I have a very specific color palette.

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我偏爱某些服装廓形。整体感觉协调且真实。所以请辩证看待我的建议——时尚领域我仍需学习成长。其实人生各方面都是如此,这让我兴奋。

I have a lot of silhouettes that I gravitate towards. Like, I feel like to me, it feels cohesive, and it feels like me. So as always, take my advice with a grain of salt. I still have a lot of learning and growing to do in the fashion department. I mean, I have a lot of learning and growing to do in every department, and that's exciting to me.

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之所以事先说明,是因为接下来要给出建议。你需要了解我的认知水平再决定是否采纳。懂我意思吗?好了,闲话少叙,我们开始吧。

But I have to preface with that because I'm about to give advice. And so I need to tell you where I'm at before you go ahead and take my advice. You know what I mean? Well, without further ado, let's get into it. Okay.

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有人说:"我正在从稚嫩风格转型,想变得更成熟精致,但毫无头绪。"我认为首先要理解幼稚风格与成熟风格的区别。其实大家对此都有基本认知。若想提升风格成熟度,必须在脑中明确界定稚嫩感与成熟感的特征。

Somebody said, I'm shifting from a very young style, and I wanna become more mature and sophisticated, but I have no idea how. I think the first thing you have to do is understand what makes style feel juvenile versus mature. I mean, I think we all have sort of a basic idea of what feels young, juvenile, immature versus mature, and sophisticated. I think if it's a goal for you to mature your style, you need to clearly define it in your mind. You need to have a very clear understanding of what feels juvenile and what feels mature.

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我个人认为,当想到幼稚的青少年服装时,脑海中浮现的是鲜艳的衣物、明亮的色彩。我会联想到繁复的设计,各种随意的小细节。想到的是潮流单品,以及基础的剪裁轮廓。11岁的孩子不需要穿定制的西装外套或正装裤。我觉得年轻时,你通常穿的是简单的版型。

I would say in my head, personally, when I think of immature juvenile clothing, I think of bright clothing, bright colors. I think of busyness, lots of little random details. I think of trendy things, and I think of basic silhouettes. 11 year olds don't need to wear like a tailored coat or like a tailored pair of dress pants. I feel like when you're young, you know, oftentimes, you're wearing simple silhouettes.

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对吧?这样父母给孩子买衣服容易,年轻人自己挑选也方便。我说的‘定制’不是指那些拿去裁缝店专业收边、打褶之类的。我指的是剪裁更复杂、更贴合身形的衣物。想到成熟服装时,我想到的是经过深思熟虑的配色方案。

Right? That's easy for parents to to buy for their kids, easy for young adults to pick out for themselves. And I'm not saying tailored as in, like, tailored pieces that were taken to a tailor to professionally hem and cinch in blah blah blah. I mean, pieces that have more complex tailoring that caters to the body shape more. When I think of mature clothing, I think of a thoughtful color palette.

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不一定是暗淡或中性色调,而是相互协调、彼此衬托的颜色。我认为成熟风格也可以是明亮多彩且充满活力的,但成熟与幼稚配色的区别在于对整体搭配的考究与平衡。比如14岁时,你可能会穿一条亮粉色裤子配印满彩虹图案的白T恤,再搭一双蓝色鞋子,纯粹随心所欲,因为孩子还没形成品味。你会把一堆鲜艳有趣的东西胡乱搭配,只因不懂更好的方式。随着年龄增长,这种穿搭会显得缺乏教养,更显幼稚。

Not necessarily a dull or neutral color palette, but colors that make sense together, colors that complement each other. I think that you can have a mature style that is bright and colorful and exciting, but I think the difference between a mature color palette and an immature color palette is the thoughtfulness and the balance that goes into the outfit. Like, when you're, I don't know, 14 years old, you'll put, like, a bright pink pair of pants on with, like, white t shirt that has a massive, like, rainbow graphic on it, and you'll wear, like, blue shoes, and it's just like a, I don't know, you'll just do random shit because you're a kid, and you don't your taste isn't developed yet. You'll just put a bunch of fun, bright things together and call it a day because you don't know any better. The older you get, the more that feels uneducated, and it feels more immature.

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我认为成熟服装往往更精致且经典。不一定是更简单,但更少杂乱、更少混乱、更少大面积图案堆砌。当然也有带图案的成熟服饰,但会更考究,更经得起时间考验。亮点或许在于微妙细节,而非T恤上醒目的狗狗图案或闪亮的贴花。

I think mature clothing is often more refined and timeless. Not necessarily more simple, but less busy, less chaotic, less graphic heavy, pattern heavy. I mean, I guess sometimes, you know, there's mature clothing that has patterns, but it's more refined. It's more timeless. Maybe the intrigue is in subtle details rather than, like, a bright graphic of, like, a dog on the T shirt or, I don't know, some sort of glittery decal.

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明白吗?取而代之的是更简约的设计。比如经典的条纹图案,或是带精美荷叶袖、前襟系带和纽扣细节的简约白衬衫。

You know? Instead of that, it's it's more simple. Right? Like, perhaps a classic pattern like stripes. Perhaps a simple white shirt that has beautiful ruffly sleeves and ties on the front and maybe some button details.

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吸引力依然存在,但以更精致永恒的方式呈现。最后同样重要的是,成熟服装剪裁更考究。不同于基础牛仔裤和T恤的简单轮廓,想到成熟服装时,我会想到完美剪裁的T恤,想到极其合身的牛仔裤。

Like, the the intrigue is still there, but it's in a much more refined, timeless way. And then last but not least, I think mature clothing is more tailored. You know? Instead of simple silhouettes like a simple pair of jeans, a simple t shirt, when I think of mature clothing, I think of the perfect t shirt. I think of a really beautifully fitting pair of jeans.

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想到的是廓形优美的宽肩大衣,或是腰臀处修身、裤脚微喇叭的精致长裤。这就是我区分幼稚与成熟的方式,这对构建衣橱很有帮助。至于打造成熟衣橱,这是个人探索的过程,但我有些建议:第一,在建立成熟衣橱前,先专注于衣柜里最经典简约的基本款。

I think of, you know, gorgeous, boxy coat with, like, you know, big shoulders or a beautiful pair of pants that are perfectly tight around the waist in the in the thighs, but maybe have, like, a nice flare, like, a bit more shape. That's kinda how I separate immature versus mature, but that can be a really helpful step in this process. Now when it comes to building a more mature wardrobe, that's also a personal journey, but I have some tips. Number one, I think until you've built out a mature wardrobe, stick to the basic pieces that you have in your closet. The most timeless, the most simple stuff that you have.

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T恤、牛仔裤、素色长裤。在你有时间找到那些既有趣又成熟的单品之前,最简单的成熟风格方法就是简化你的风格。我认为简约是绝佳的第一步。几乎每个人的衣橱里都有基础款。即便你现在的服装收藏显得稚气——顺便说,‘稚气’常被用作贬义词,但这里我并无贬低之意。

T shirts, jeans, plain pants. The easiest way to mature your style is to simplify your style until you have the time to find those pieces that are interesting but also mature. I think simplicity is a great first step. Almost everybody has simple pieces in their closet. Even if you have an immature collection of clothing and by the way, immature is often used as an insult, but I'm not using it as an insult here.

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这更像是一种客观描述,比如年轻风格、青少年风格。但‘稚气’这个词对我而言更顺口,所以我才这么说。不过我认为,甚至无需购买新衣物,迈向成熟风格的第一步就是先穿你现有的简约单品。我知道这有时会显得乏味,但如果你对提升风格成熟度感兴趣,这会是个美妙的开端。下一步我建议是审视你现有的稚气衣橱,找出你已知喜欢的颜色和版型。

It's like more of just like a fact, like young style, juvenile style. But immature is just rolling off the tongue for me, so that's why I'm that's why I'm saying it. But I think the first step in the right direction without even having to buy anything is to just start wearing your more simple pieces. And I know that that can sometimes feel boring, but if you're excited about the idea of maturing your style, I think this can be a wonderful first step. The next step I would say would be to analyze your current immature wardrobe to figure out what colors and shapes you already know that you like.

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因为直接出门盲目购物并非明智之举。你需要制定计划。真希望我年轻时就这么做了——在成年后为自己购物之前,应该更多思考成年人的个人风格。但当时我没有,我也不知道为什么。

Because it's not a good idea to go out and just start shopping. You wanna kinda get a plan. I wish I would have done this when I was younger. I wish I would have thought more about my personal style as an adult before going out and shopping for myself as an adult. But I didn't I don't know.

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我甚至没想过要这样做。如果能重来,我一定会这么做。所以,要成为成熟的时尚人士,第一步应该是观察你现有的喜好。比如:你最喜欢的衬衫是什么?也许是一件印着彩虹小狗图案的亮蓝色毛衣。

I didn't even think to do that. And if I could go back, I I would. So I would say the first step in trying to figure out who you are as a mature, stylish person would be to look at what you already like. Like, what's your favorite shirt? Maybe it's a super bright blue sweater that has like a dog on it, and there's like and the dog has like a rainbow on it, whatever.

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好的,现在你知道了你喜欢圆领毛衣,也适合穿蓝色。假设你最喜欢的裤子是一条镶满水钻的喇叭牛仔裤,比如Miss Me或True Religion那种。虽然这可能是你最喜欢的裤子。

Okay. Well, now you know that you like crewneck sweaters, and you like the color blue on you. You know? Let's say your favorite pair of pants is like a pair of bedazzled flare jeans, like the miss me jeans or like true religion type jeans. Like, maybe though that's your favorite pair of pants.

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那么现在你明白了你喜欢喇叭裤型,喜欢它们在你身上的效果。总之,分析你现有的衣物中你认为好看的款式,开始理解自己的偏好。之后就可以上Pinterest了。

Well, now you know that you like, you know, flare, like pants that flare. You like the way that they look on you. I don't know. Analyze what you already have and what you think looks good on you, and start to get an understanding of of what you like. But then from there, go on Pinterest.

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这期节目我会反复提到Pinterest,但创建灵感画册确实很有帮助——不一定要用Pinterest,你可以买杂志剪图、用谷歌图片,或者阅读时尚书籍来收集图像。

In this episode, I'm gonna be telling you to go on Pinterest a lot, but I think it's really helpful to make a Pinterest board, some sort of collection of images. You don't necessarily have to go on Pinterest. You could buy magazines and cut pictures out. You could go on Google images. You could read a fashion book.

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比如,创建一个你喜欢的东西的看板。我觉得在做灵感看板时,并不需要把每一样添加进去的东西都做到完美。只要有一个明确展示你喜好的看板就足够了。然后你可以分析看板上的内容,再进一步调整。明白我的意思吗?

Like, make a board of stuff that you like. I think when you're making a board for inspiration, you don't necessarily need to like make every single thing you add to your mood board perfect. I think just having a defined board of what you like is good enough. And then from there, you can analyze what you've added to your board and then go from there. You know what I'm saying?

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因为我觉得正确的做法不是做好看板后就把上面所有东西都买下来。看板最有用的地方不在于上面具体的物品,而在于它传递的氛围、感觉和色彩搭配。它更多是帮你识别反复出现的主题、物品、颜色和氛围等等。所以当你分析完自己的衣柜并做好某种看板后,就可以开始实地购物了——但我说的不是真的去买东西。

Because I don't think the right idea is to make a mood board and then buy everything you put on the mood board. A mood board is is the most helpful, not really for, like, exact things that are on it, but rather just a vibe, a feeling, a color palette. It's more for recognizing reoccurring themes, items, colors, vibes, etcetera. So once you've sort of analyzed your own closet and made some sort of mood board, then I think it's time to start shopping in person. But I don't mean actually shopping in person.

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我指的不是一定要购买。我是说每隔一周左右出去试穿衣服。尝试从未穿过的剪裁,试穿不同颜色,诚实地面对自己,开始了解哪些衣服适合你。既然你已经清楚知道自己喜欢什么(不一定适合你),也通过年轻时穿过的衣服对适合度有初步概念,现在是时候弄明白了——

I don't mean actually buying things necessarily. I mean, just spending every other weekend or so going out and trying on clothes. Try new silhouettes you've never tried before. Try on colors, and be honest with yourself, and start to learn about what you like on you. Now that you have a clear understanding of what you like not on you and a little bit on you from what you, you know, used to wear when you were younger, now it's time to figure out, okay.

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等等,到底哪些成熟风格的衣服真正适合我?我认为亲自尝试、试穿、触摸衣物非常有帮助。当时尚探索进入新阶段时,无负担的尝试至关重要。别急着在网上订购。

Wait. What kind of mature clothes do I actually like on me? And I think experimenting in person, trying on clothes, touching clothes is incredibly helpful. When you're in a new phase of your fashion journey, it's so important to experiment without commitment. Don't just start ordering stuff online.

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亲自去试穿,认真思考你对试穿衣服的感受:这像你的风格吗?穿起来好看吗?诚实地问自己这些问题。这是个需要时间的旅程。

Go in person and try things on, and really critically think about how you feel about the things that you're trying on. Does it feel like you? Does it look good on you? Ask yourself these questions and be honest with yourself. This is a journey that takes time.

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如果急于求成,最终衣柜里会堆满不像你的衣服,或者不够完美的衣物——可能会有些穿着不适甚至发痒的衣服。仓促行事会导致日后后悔的衣橱。这应该是个缓慢的实验过程。在不断试穿探索中,偶尔你会遇到完美的单品——

If you try to rush it, you'll end up with a closet full of stuff that doesn't feel like you, or you'll end up with a closet full of stuff that maybe isn't perfect. Like, you end up with stuff that's kind of uncomfortable or maybe a little itchy. Like, if you try to rush the process, you'll end up with a wardrobe that you regret later. It it needs to be a slow experimental process. And in this process of sort of trying things on, experimenting, every once in a while, you might stumble upon a piece that's perfect.

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你会突然发现:等等,这就是我的风格!合身得恰到好处,舒适度满分,我太爱这种穿着感受了。

You're like, wait. This is so me. It fits perfectly. It's so comfortable. I love the way it feels.

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它完全符合我制作的灵感板的氛围,而且我穿上效果非常好。就像,这简直太棒了。完美。我要买下它。这种情况偶尔会发生,但并非每次购物都能遇到。

It matches the vibe of my mood board that I made, and it looks really good on me. Like, this is just great. This is perfect. I'm gonna get it. That's gonna happen every once in a while, but it's not gonna happen every time you go shopping.

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很可能不会。所以你的预期应该是,我只是在尝试。我认为购物时的心态应该是,我只是在摸索什么款式适合我且显得成熟。这样你最终也会发现不错的单品。这个探索过程会持续很多年。

Like, it probably won't. And so your expectation should be, I'm just experimenting. I think going into shopping, you should have the mindset of, I'm just trying to figure out what looks good on me and is mature. And then you will end up finding good pieces as well. And then I think this journey continues for years.

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这不是一夜之间就能完成的事。这对你很重要也令人兴奋,是你一生都会持续的事——收集那些完美、代表你、且感觉成熟的单品。这是我的建议。下一个问题。有人说,如何找到既适合我又符合自我风格的穿搭?

It's not something that happens overnight. This is something that is important to you and exciting to you, it's something that you're gonna continue for the rest of your life, collecting pieces that are perfect and are you and feel mature. That's my that's my suggestion. Moving on. Somebody said, how do I figure out what style looks good on me and feels like me?

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我们刚才已经部分讨论过这个问题,但并未深入。因为这是个独特的难题。要判断什么适合你,可以做几件事:第一,查看自己的照片,试穿现有衣物,认真分析哪些款式适合你。

So we've already sort of discussed this with the last thing, but not we didn't really get into it. Okay? Because this is its own sort of dilemma. When it comes to figuring out what looks good, there's a few things that you can do. Number one, look at photos of yourself and try on clothes that you already have and really analyze what looks good on you.

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听起来很浅显,但我花了多年才明白'我喜欢但不适合我'与'我喜欢且适合我'的区别。以前衣柜里有很多穿起来很糟糕的衣服,仅仅因为挂在那里时我喜欢就买了。无数次我穿上某件衣服照镜子时想:不确定是否好看,但我喜欢这套搭配,那就穿吧。结果往往失望。

It sounds so obvious, but, like, I can't tell you how many years it took for me to make the connection between what I like not on me and what I like on me. I used to have so many pieces of clothing in my closet that looked genuinely terrible on me, but I bought them because I liked them off of me, you know? And I can't tell you how many times I've like put something on and looked in the mirror and been like, I don't know that this looks really good, but I like the outfit. So I guess I'll wear it. And then I've ended up being kinda disappointed.

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我花了很长时间才学会:客观分析上身效果,诚实地判断是否得体。这需要思维转变——模特穿着好看不等于你穿好看,Pinterest看到的搭配不等于适合你。试穿现有衣物、比划颜色效果、查看旧照片中哪些色彩和剪裁最衬你...天知道我花了多久才明白这点。

It took me a very long time to learn the practice of analyzing how something looks on me, being honest with myself about whether or not it's flattering. But I think it's a mindset shift of, like, realizing that just because you like something on a mannequin doesn't mean you're gonna like it on yourself. Just because you like something you saw on Pinterest doesn't mean you're gonna like it on yourself. And so I think trying clothes on in your closet, holding things up, and seeing what colors look the best on you, looking at past photos, and looking at what colors and and silhouettes look the most flattering, I I can't even tell you how long it took me to learn that. You know?

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现在我知道什么适合自己,也知道该避开什么。有天我突然顿悟——虽然这道理本该很明显。奇怪的是我们很少这样思考穿搭,尤其在网络时代,我们从社交媒体获取灵感,制作Pinterest看板。

And now I know what looks good on me, and I know what to avoid. I had this epiphany about it one day as though it wasn't obvious. It's weird. We don't tend to think about clothing that way as much, especially in the age of the Internet when, you know, we're taking inspiration from people we see on social media. We're making Pinterest boards.

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我们在网上购物。很多时候我们挑选衣服并不真正关乎它穿在我们身上的样子和感觉,而是它在别人眼中的效果,以及它是如何被营销给我们的。你明白我的意思吗?而当要找到真正适合自己的风格时,我会说,第一件事,还是制作情绪板。

We're shopping online. A lot of our shopping and and picking out of clothing is not really about how it looks and feels on us. It's about how it looks on others, how it's marketed to us. Do you know what I'm saying? And then when it comes to figuring out what feels like you, I would say, number one, again, make a mood board.

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这非常有用。不过我要说明,情绪板通常由一些潮流图像组成。对吧?比如我们在Pinterest、Instagram和杂志上看到的很多图片,里面充斥着流行元素。但我仍然认为制作情绪板很有价值,因为正如我之前提到的,你可以从中发现你偏爱的图案、颜色、剪裁风格和整体氛围。

It is so helpful. Now I will say mood boards are composed usually of somewhat trendy imagery. Right? Like, a lot of the images we see on Pinterest, on Instagram, in magazines, there's a lot of trendy stuff out there. But I still think it's really valuable to make a mood board because then you can, as I mentioned earlier, start to pick up on patterns, colors that you're gravitating towards, silhouettes that you're gravitating towards, a vibe that you're gravitating towards.

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但接下来问题是:如何将其个性化?如何让它真正代表你?每次你穿上一套衣服,每次在店里试穿一件单品,每次在网上浏览看到喜欢的东西时,你都需要问自己为什么喜欢它。是因为在Pinterest上看到类似的穿搭觉得别人穿得很好看,因为它很时髦,穿上就能融入潮流吗?

But then from there, there's a question of how do you personalize it? You know? How do you make it feel you? Every time you put on an outfit, every time you're trying on a piece at a store, every time you're scrolling online and you find something that you that you like, you need to ask yourself why you like it. Do you like it because you saw something similar on Pinterest, you thought it looked really good on on that person, and, you know, it's trendy, and it's in, and and you'll fit in if you wear it?

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还是因为它让你觉得这就是你自己?当你看着它时,会感觉'哇,这件衣服以某种奇妙的方式准确表达了我'。当然这很难,因为服装想要传达的信息并不明显。比如穿一件最喜爱乐队的T恤,这显然是在向他人传递你喜欢这个乐队的信息。但一件黑白条纹毛衣就没有那么明确的信息。

Or do you like it because it feels like you? It's something that when you look at it, you're like, oh, that that actually properly represents me as a person in a weird way. Now it's hard because it's not that obvious what a piece of clothing is trying to say. Like, if you're wearing a band tee for your favorite band, yeah, that obviously sends a message to other people that you like this band. But, like, a black and white striped sweater doesn't have an obvious message.

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你懂我的意思吗?它就是一件黑白毛衣。但对我个人而言,想到黑白条纹毛衣时,我会联想到蒂姆·伯顿的诡异电影,带点朋克边缘气质——不多,就一点点。

Do you know what I'm saying? It's a black and white sweater. But to me, when I think of a black and white striped sweater, personally, I think of, like, creepy Tim Burton movies. I think of maybe a little bit punk, edgy, little bit. Not a lot, but, like, a little bit.

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不过对我来说它也有点艺术气息。黑白条纹可以呈现几种不同的感觉,我能想象它传递出其中任何一种气质。或者比如一条经典的原色牛仔裤,它传递什么信息?它是经典款。

It feels kinda artsy to me, though, too, a little bit. Like, black and white stripes can feel, you know, a few different ways, but I could see it feeling any one of those vibes. Or say, like, a classic pair of raw denim jeans. What does that say? I mean, they're classic.

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它永不过时。作为原色牛仔,它有种精致的锐利感,未经磨损。可以说这是条优雅的裤子。原色牛仔裤总让我联想到去图书馆的感觉,虽然不知道为什么会有这种联想。

They're timeless. They're also sophisticated in the way that they're raw denim, and they're very sharp, and they're not worn in. And, you know, they're very sort of they're an elegant sort of pair of pants. There's something about a pair of raw denim pants that feels like going to the library. I don't know why.

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你知道吗,无所谓。当我...当我对服装的感知方式以及它们向我传达的信息,这些只是例子。购物时,搭配服装时,你需要问自己:这件衣服传达的信息是否与你本人相符?还是你仅仅因为它是潮流、因为别人都在穿、因为它现在是热门单品才喜欢?明白吗?

You know, whatever. When I when I these are just examples of how I perceive clothing and what they say to me. When you're shopping, you know, when you're putting together an outfit, you need to ask yourself, does what the clothing say align with you as a person? Or do you just like it because it's trendy and because other people are wearing it and because it's, like, the cool thing to have right now? You know?

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这件衣物是否真的与你有某种个人层面的共鸣?我认为一旦你用这种方式看待服装,就能开始分辨哪些感觉像你,哪些不像。但这种第六感需要时间培养——你越是思考服装、风格和时尚,这种感觉就会越敏锐。另一个建议是:关注那些让你感到最自信的穿搭。

Does it actually is there some sort of personal connection with how this particular pair of clothing reads with you or no? And I think once you look at clothing in that sort of way, you can begin to recognize what feels like you and what doesn't. But that's sort of a a sixth sense that I think you develop over time the more you think about clothing, and style, and fashion. I think the more that you get into it, the more that sixth sense sort of strengthens. Another tip would be to pay attention to what makes you feel the most confident.

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穿着符合自我认同的服装与自信心之间存在不可否认的联系。当我穿着不像自己风格的服装时(这种情况时有发生,每个人都难免),比如某次搭配后我可能觉得'哦我挺喜欢这个'...

There's an undeniable link between wearing clothing that feels like you and confidence. You know? When I'm wearing an outfit that doesn't feel like me, which happens sometimes. Like, it happens to everybody. Sometimes I'll put something together, and I'll be like, oh, I really like this.

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但穿着几小时后可能发现它并不完全像我,这很正常。这是尝试过程中的必经阶段,对吧?

And then maybe it doesn't feel fully like me, and I realize that, you know, a few hours into wearing it, I'm like, this doesn't feel like me. That's fine. That's normal. That's a part of experimenting. Right?

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关键要关注那些让你最自信的穿搭,因为我认为最能让你自信的,往往也是最像你的风格。最后同样重要的是:分析你的个性并将其与服装联系起来,让个性指引你的选择。我说的个性显然是指真实的你——你是腼腆的?

But pay attention to what makes you feel the most confident because I think what makes you feel the most confident is what feels the most you. Last but not least, I think it can be helpful to examine your personality and then connect your personality to clothing. Allow that to guide you in picking out clothing. Now when I say personality, I obviously mean who you are. Are you shy?

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内向还是外向开朗?是焦虑型还是温柔暖心型?是叛逆者还是规则遵守者?试着找出你最自信想展现的特质,然后寻找与之契合的服装。

Are you introverted? Or are you outgoing and extroverted? Are you angsty, or are you kind and soft and warm? You know, are you rebellious, or are you a rule follower? Try to figure out which elements of yourself you feel the most confident about you want to display the most, and then find clothing that feels like that.

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比如如果你以叛逆为傲,就穿叛逆风格的衣服。除此之外,分析个性时也要关注你的喜好:最爱的电影类型?常听的音乐风格?留意你在其他所有事物上的品味倾向。

Like, if you're a rebel and that's something you're really proud of, then wear rebellious clothing. But beyond that, when it comes to analyzing your personality, also pay attention to the things that you like. What are your favorite movies? What's your favorite type of music to listen to? Pay attention to your taste in everything else.

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再次强调,让这种感觉引导你找到符合自我气质的衣服。比如,如果你真的喜欢流行音乐,对吧?流行音乐往往轻快明亮,或许这意味着你的风格倾向一件可爱简约的连衣裙。

And again, let that guide you in finding clothes that feel like you. You know, if you really like pop music. Right? Pop music tends to be light and bright. Maybe that means that your vibe is like a cute, simple dress.

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我他妈也不确定,但你懂我意思吧?很多时候我们的审美是相当一致的,这些元素组合起来往往很和谐。所以存在某种贯穿线或什么的,我认为这能再次为你的购物提供指引。以我自己为例,我可以完美展示其他领域的品味如何影响穿衣风格——比如我超爱诡异动画电影。

I don't fucking know, but you know what I'm saying. It's like, I think a lot of times our taste is pretty consistent, you know, and it all kinda makes sense together a lot of times. So there's through lines or whatever, and I think that can, again, help guide you when it comes to shopping. Like, for me, for example, I can give a great example of how my taste in other things impacts my taste in clothing. Like, I personally love creepy animated movies.

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像《鬼妈妈》这种,还有《圣诞夜惊魂》之类电影的美学风格。我痴迷蒂姆·伯顿、亨利·塞利克那种调调,一直钟爱女巫系、诡异惊悚的元素。所以最近当我更明确个人风格后,实际上越来越倾向暗黑系色彩,某种非正统的哥特风。

Like, I love Coraline. You know, I love the aesthetic of, like, The Nightmare Before Christmas and all of those different types of movies. Like, I love Tim Burton, Henry Selick vibes. I've always loved witchy, creepy, spooky stuff. And so more recently, as I've sort of defined my personal style more, I I've actually really gotten more into creepy, dark colors, more sort of goth not goth.

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天啊,肯定会有人说'你根本不算哥特',傻逼。我确实完全不哥特,但确实更偏向哥特风格的东西。

Oh my god. People are gonna be like, you're not goth. You fucking idiot. And I'm not goth at all. But like, more sort of gothic style things.

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比如我开始尝试更多暗色系穿搭,化深色妆容,穿戴更诡异的单品。但另一方面,我也超爱《大人物拿破仑》这部电影——它是我的人生最爱之一。那部电影充满复古明快又俗艳的气息。我还喜欢韦斯·安德森的电影美学,同样鲜艳复古带着刻意俗套。

Like, I've started to maybe sort of dabble there a little bit more, wear darker colors, wear darker makeup, wear creepier sort of stuff. But on the other hand, I also really enjoy the movie Napoleon Dynamite. It's one of my favorite movies of all time. And that movie has a very, like, retro, bright, kind of kitschy sort of feel to it. I also love Wes Anderson movies and the aesthetic in Wes Anderson, which is also very bright, retro, kitschy.

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所以有时候我也会穿明快色块的经典套装。我欣赏的艺术类型和喜欢的电影很相似,偏爱那些带点诡异、古怪、不协调的作品。

And so there are times when I love, like, a bright color blocked classic sort of outfit. You know? The type of art that I like to look at kind of is similar to the type of movie I like to look at. You know? I like art that's maybe a bit creepy, a little bit weird, a little bit off kilter.

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我真心热爱这类艺术,但同时也喜欢明亮俗艳的风格,还有那种带点幽默或戏谑意味的作品。比如粗糙的草图式艺术或卡通风格——这些我也很着迷。总之,如果我打开衣柜,会发现所有这些元素其实都能奇妙地融合在一起。

I really love art like that, but I also like art that's really bright and kitschy too. But I also like art that can be kind of funny or, like, tongue in cheek even. I like rough art, like art that's like like a rough sketch or like a cartoon. Like, I like stuff like that too. Anyway, but all of these things, if I were to look in my closet, it actually all kind of goes together.

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而且,再次强调,这听起来可能抽象到荒谬,但我确实认为两者之间存在关联。我认为在分析你对其他事物的品味时,这能真正帮助你找到属于自己的感觉,因为你知道,它可以引导你在时尚方面走向正确的方向。好了,下一个问题。有人问,我如何找到个人风格并确保自己不盲目追随潮流?

And, again, this might seem so abstract that it's ridiculous, but I do think that there's a connection there. And I think when it comes to figuring out what feels like you to analyze your taste in other things is really helpful because, you know, it can help guide you in the right direction with fashion. Okay. Next. Somebody said, how do I find my personal style and make sure I'm not just relying on trendy stuff?

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我希望我的衣服能让我感觉独一无二。这极具挑战性,因为你可能认为某样东西非常符合你的个性,但实际上它只是潮流而你恰好喜欢。明白吗?要区分你是真心喜欢某样东西,还是因为大家都喜欢而喜欢,这是时尚界最难做到的事情之一。

I want my clothes to feel unique to me. This is incredibly challenging because you might think that something is so you, but it's actually just trendy and you like it. You know? It is very hard to figure out what you like because it feels like you and what you like because everybody else likes it. Like, it's one of the hardest things to do in fashion, I think.

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更复杂的是,有时某样东西既是潮流,又确实符合你的个性。以我自己为例,平底鞋就是个很好的例子——不一定是传统带蝴蝶结的芭蕾平底鞋(那种可能不太符合我的风格),而是泛指平底鞋款式。虽然平底鞋现在正流行...

And it's it's made even harder because sometimes things are trendy, but they also are genuinely you. A great example of that, I would say for me, would be like flats, like flat shoes. Not necessarily ballet flats. I don't really have any, like, traditional classic ballet flats with the bow because those are maybe a little bit less my style, but, like, a flat shoe in general. Flats are very trendy right now.

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其实在平底鞋流行之前,我很少穿。但正因为它们成为潮流,我才发现有些平底鞋款式是我从未考虑过纳入衣橱的。现在它们流行起来,出现了许多类似芭蕾平底鞋的变种,我才意识到:等等,其实有些款式确实适合我。它们可能不是传统芭蕾平底鞋,但属于平底鞋范畴。

And I I hadn't really been wearing flats prior to them becoming trendy. But because they became trendy, I realized there are types of flats that I never really even thought about integrating into my wardrobe. But now that they're trendy and there's so many different types of, like, ballet flat adjacent shoes, I'm finding, oh, wait. There's actually ones out there that do feel like me. Maybe they're not a traditional ballet flat, but they're a flat shoe.

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就这样,我在潮流中找到了属于自己的款式。我确实有几双平底鞋——没有一双是独一无二的,全是流行款,很多人都在穿。

And so I found myself within that trend. I have some flats. None of them are unique. They're all trendy. You can find so many people wearing them.

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但我百分百确信那就是我的风格。我会永远穿它们,它们非常'我'。没错,我是通过潮流发现它们的,但我真心认为它们就是我的风格。所以说这很复杂,因为你的判断可能会被流行趋势所干扰。

But I am 100 confident that those are my style. Like, I will wear those forever. They're very me. And, yes, I discovered them through a trend, but I really do genuinely believe that they are me. So again, it's complicated because your your judgment can become clouded by something being really popular.

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不过我有几个建议可以帮助定义个人风格,从而增强你判断某物是纯潮流还是既潮流又符合你个性的能力。第一,我建议暂时远离互联网/时尚内容。如果你真的很沉迷,不妨休息一个月。我知道你在想什么。

But I do have some tips, I would say, that can help with defining your own personal style so that you can strengthen your ability to to figure out whether something's just trendy or if it's maybe trendy and it's something that feels like you. Number one, I would say take a break from the Internet slash consuming fashion content. If you're really into it, take a break. Take like a month off. I know what you're thinking.

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艾玛,这不现实。不,并非如此。你不需要消费那种内容。你不需要上社交媒体。即使这是你的工作。

Emma, that's unrealistic. No, it's not. You don't need to consume that kind of content. You don't need to go on social media. Even if it's your job.

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假设你是公司的社交媒体经理。你仍然不需要滚动浏览。你可以发布内容后就离开。如果你真的难以抗拒网络潮流的诱惑,那就把它收起来。休息一下。

Let's say you're a social media manager at a company. You still don't need to scroll. You can just post something and then leave. If you're really struggling with the pull of trends on the internet, put it away. Take a break.

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可以是两周,也可以是一个月。休息一下。转而消费那些不当前、不那么时髦的时尚内容。去图书馆。找一本时尚书籍。

Could be two weeks, could be a month. Take a break. And instead, consume fashion content that isn't current, isn't so trendy right now. Go to the library. Get a fashion book.

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我甚至不知道图书馆是否还存在。但如果存在,去办张该死的借书证,去图书馆。我是说,不,你不需要那样做。如果你想看时尚内容,你可以查找1995年的时装秀造型并滚动浏览。

I don't even know if libraries still exist. But if they do, get go get a fucking library card and go to the library. I mean, no. You don't need to do that. You could look up runway outfits from 1995 and like scroll through if you want fashion content.

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你可以找到一本时尚书籍。你可以坐在咖啡馆里观察路人。是的,那可能仍然时髦,因为它是当下的。然而,互联网上的潮流更加浓缩和饱和,而在现实生活中,如果你坐在咖啡馆里看路人,你可能会看到几个时髦的人,但也会看到很多不关注流行趋势的人。

You can find a fashion book. You can sit at a cafe and people watch people walking by. Yes. That still might be trendy because it's current. However, the Internet is much more condensed and saturated with trends, whereas in real life, if you sit at a cafe and you watch people walk by, you might see a few trendy people, but you're also gonna see a lot of people who are not paying attention to to what's in.

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他们做自己的事。老实说,我认为现实世界中做自己事的人比网上多,因为在互联网上,追随潮流有很多好处。而在现实生活中,这没那么重要,而且现实生活中有更多不同类型的人。暂时远离互联网上过载的时尚潮流,以更永恒的方式消费时尚,比如在街上自然观察,看包含档案时尚的时尚书籍,看旧的时装秀,我不知道,看旧的狗仔队照片,暂时看一些非当下的东西。然后,开始注意那些现在不流行但吸引你的东西,并关注它们。

They're doing their own thing. There's more people doing their own thing in the real world than online, I would argue, honestly, because the Internet, there's a lot to gain from being in style. Whereas in real life, there's it's less important, And there's many more different types of people in real life. And taking a break from the overload of fashion trends on the Internet and just consuming fashion in a more timeless sort of way, organically on the street, in a fashion book with archival fashion in it, you know, looking at old runway shows, I don't know, looking at old paparazzi photos, just looking at stuff that's not current for a little bit. And then, start to see what calls out to you that maybe isn't in right now, and pay attention to that.

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看看当你脑海中没有当前潮流的影响时,挑选服装的方式会如何改变。你会注意到你对时尚的思考方式不同了,看看你从这种经历中学到了什么。我认为这可以再次真正帮助你强化对自己喜好的感知,如果你是一个消费大量网络潮流内容的人。我还有一个建议是去那些非精选的商店购物。复古商店、二手商店、在线转售商,比如eBay之类的。

See how picking out outfits changes for you when you don't have the influence of current trends in your mind. You'll notice that you'll think about fashion differently, and see what you learn in that experience. I think that can, again, just really help strengthen your sense of what you like if you're somebody who's consuming a lot of internet trendy content, you know? Another tip I have is to shop at stores that are not curated. Vintage stores, thrift stores, online resellers, you know, eBay, shit like that.

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当一家商店未经精选,只是堆满各种随机商品时,你不得不独立思考。你必须挑选真正符合自我风格的东西,因为在潮流店铺购物时,潮流是被直接灌输给你的——你甚至无需思考。而在复古店或二手店购物时,没有什么是被奉上银盘的。这种体验会再次迫使你从纷繁选项中找出真正属于你的风格。

When a store is not curated, when it's just a bunch of random stuff, you're forced to think for yourself. You're forced to pick something out that feels genuinely like you because when you're shopping at a trendy store, the trends are just handed to you. You don't even have to think. When you're shopping in a vintage store, at a thrift store, nothing is being handed to you on a silver platter. And that experience will again force you to figure out what feels like you because you're faced with so many different options.

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唯一缩小选择范围的方法就是弄清自己真正喜欢什么。二手店不会告诉你要喜欢什么,但商场会。其次,我建议专注于寻找能引发你个人共鸣的物品——这一点我先前已经提到过。

The only way to narrow things down is to figure out what you genuinely like. You're not being told what to like in a thrift store. You're being told what to like when you're at the mall. Next, I would say focus on shopping for things that feel personal to you. I already mentioned this earlier.

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我认为寻找与你有某种个人关联的物品会很有帮助,这种关联不必是显而易见的。比如明显的关联可能是购买印有你出生州的T恤——对我来说,买加州T恤,更具体些,买旧金山T恤就极具个人意义。但请注意...

I think it can be really helpful to look for things that have some sort of personal connection to you, and it doesn't need to be some sort of obvious connection to you. Right? Like, an obvious connection to you would be buying a t shirt that has the state that you were born in. Buying a California shirt, even more specifically, buying a San Francisco shirt would be incredibly personal to me. Now listen.

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购买这类个性化物品固然很好,但这显然是非常特定的类型。我指的是那些以更抽象方式与你个人产生共鸣、只有你能理解的物品。例如:不要仅因觉得可爱或合身就买裙子,试着找到能唤起你某种回忆、让你感到怀旧甚至产生依恋的裙子——也许因为它让你想起姐姐常穿的裙子,或是你最喜欢的电影。

You can like, it's a great idea to buy things that are personal like that, but that's obviously a very specific type of item. I'm talking about buying things that are personal to you in a more abstract way that only really makes sense to you. So a good example of that would be instead of buying a skirt just because you're like, oh, I think that's cute, and it like looks good on me, try to find a skirt that reminds you of something, that feels almost nostalgic to you, that you almost feel attached to. Perhaps because it reminds you of a skirt that your sister used to wear. Perhaps because it reminds you of your favorite movie.

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也许因为它的色彩图案让你产生与聆听最爱歌曲时相同的感受。我知道你们又在想:艾玛,这太抽象了,你到底在说什么?或许只有我会这样,但我真的会看着某件衣服想:这让我想起最爱的电影《鬼妈妈》。

Perhaps because the colors and the patterns on it make you feel the same way that your favorite song makes you feel. Now, I know again what you're thinking. Emma, this is so abstract. What the fuck are you talking about? Maybe I'm alone in this, but I will literally look at a piece of clothing and be like, oh, that reminds me of my favorite movie, Coraline.

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或是:那件衬衫让我想起奶奶——她每年全家去鳕鱼角度假时穿的衣服,我在照片里见过她穿类似的。尽可能多地寻找对你有抽象意义的衣物,这是判断它是否属于你的好标准。下个建议是:根据个人直觉来搭配服装,而非模仿他人。打开衣柜时,试着屏蔽所有见过的穿搭,仅组合那些对你而言有意义的搭配。听着...

Or, oh, that shirt reminds me of my grandma, what she used to wear when she would go on the family's yearly vacation to Cape Cod, and I've seen photos of her wearing, you know, a a shirt like this. As often as you can, finding pieces that have some sort of abstract meaning to you is a good sign that it's you. My next piece of advice would be to style your clothes based on your own personal instinct and intuition, instead of copying how other people style their clothes. When you go into your closet, try your best to like erase everything you've ever seen and just put something together that that makes sense to you. Listen.

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我们永远无法抹去一生中吸收的时尚影响——我也不认为应该这样做,因为这本身具有教育性和趣味性。但如果你是个大量消费网络潮流内容的人,记住别人的穿搭会很容易,此时更需要主动选择屏蔽这些信息。因为即使你试图屏蔽,总会有残留影响存在。懂吗?

We can never forget the the fashion influence that we've consumed our entire life. Like and I don't think we should because I do think that that's actually educational and and interesting and helpful. But I think if you're somebody who consumes a lot of trendy content online, you're gonna have no problem, like, remembering what other people it makes more sense to make the active decision to try to shut it out. Because even if you're shutting it out, there's still gonna be a little bit left in there. You know?

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你不会走进衣橱就忘记裤子该放哪,比如‘哦,我该把这穿在手臂上吗?’你懂我的意思吧?相反,你应该带着全新的视角进去,而不是预先想着‘我看到别人这么穿,我也要试试’

You're not going into your closet forgetting, like, where your pants go. Like, oh, do I put these on my arms? Like, you do you get what I'm saying? But instead, you're just trying to go in with a fresh, like, perspective, not with a plan in mind of like, oh, I saw this person doing this. Like, I'm gonna try to do it.

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把自己想象成一张空白画布,衣橱里的每件衣服都是原始材料,它们可以变成任何你想要的样子。明白吗?最后最重要的是,如果你想真正展现个人风格、避开潮流,就得接受自己有点与众不同。个人风格的核心就在于它的独特性——如果某种风格专属于你,就意味着别人不会这么穿

Think of yourself as a blank canvas and every single piece of clothing in your closet as like a raw material, and it could turn into anything you want it to turn into. You know what I'm saying? And last but not least, if you really wanna lean into your personal style and you wanna avoid trends, you have to be okay with being a little different. The entire ethos of the concept of personal style is that it's unique to you. And if something's unique to you, that means that no one else is doing it.

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如果别人都不这么穿,那意味着你的穿搭可能有点怪。我现在的个人风格里就有一些人们不喜欢、不理解、甚至讨厌的元素

And if no one else is doing it, then that means what you're doing is maybe a little bit weird. There are certain things about my personal style at this point that people don't like. They don't understand. They don't they don't get it. They hate it.

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我经常在Instagram上分享穿搭,有次我特别喜欢的造型发出来后,人们评论说‘这是我见过最丑最怪的搭配,艾玛还以为自己穿得多惊艳呢,大错特错’知道吗?

I obviously post a lot of my outfits on my Instagram, and there are times when I can think of one particular outfit I posted on my Instagram that I loved. And people were like, this is the ugliest, weirdest outfit I've ever seen in my life. Emma thought she fucking ate with this. Well, she was wrong. Guess what?

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但那套穿搭就是我的个人风格。我喜欢它,觉得合理才穿的,它让我充满自信

That outfit was my personal style. I like it. It made sense to me. That's why I wore it. It made me feel confident.

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那就是真实的我。我喜欢才穿,才发到Ins上,虽然招来恶评

It felt like me. I like it. I wore it. It's on my Instagram. People hated it.

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时至今日我依然坚持自己的审美。人们不喜欢又如何?要是我每套穿搭都人见人爱,反而说明我不过是在随大流,根本没有展现独特的自我

I like it, and I stand by that to this day. I don't care that people don't like it. If everybody liked every single outfit I wore, that would mean that I'm probably pretty trendy. I'm not really doing anything different. I'm not doing anything unique to me.

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个人风格实际上有点像走自己的路。所以不是每个人都会一直喜欢它。有时候对某些人来说会显得奇怪。你不能因此感到被冒犯。追随潮流在情感上要容易得多。

Personal style is actually kind of marching to the beat of your own drum. And so not everyone's gonna like it all the time. It's gonna be weird to some people sometimes. You have to not get offended by that. It's so much easier emotionally to follow trends.

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但你看,拥有个人风格的回报在于,有时候你搭配出来的东西会让人们惊叹,哇,太酷了。我从来没想到可以这样。这对他人可能是极大的启发,也可能让他们无法理解。

But see, the reward though of having personal style is that there are gonna be times when you put something together that people are like, woah. That's so cool. I would have never thought of that. It can be incredibly inspiring to others. It might not make sense to others.

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两种结果都有可能,你必须接受这一点。所以我最后的建议是放下恐惧。下一个问题。有人说,当你无法在衣服上花很多钱时,如何找到自己的风格?在我15、16岁的时候,我真的开始对时尚产生兴趣。

Could go either way, and you have to be okay with that. So my last tip would be let go of the fear. Next. Somebody said, how to find your style when you can't spend a lot of money on clothes? When I was 15, 16, I really started to get into fashion.

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在那之前,我也喜欢时尚,但我穿的基本上和学校里其他人穿的一样。穿着打底裤、UGG靴子、紧身牛仔裤、小短裤和Hollister的印花背心。我并没有创新,明白吗?那时候我真的严格追随潮流。

Whereas prior to that, I was into fashion, but I was very much wearing what everybody else was wearing at school. Was wearing the the leggings, and the UGG boot, and the skinny jean jeggging, and the little mini shorts, and the graphic Hollister tank tops. Like, I was just I was not reinventing the wheel. Okay? I was, like, really following the trends to a tee at that time.

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然后我到了15、16岁,开始想做自己的事情。我采取的方法是,第一,研究。Pinterest真的帮了大忙——我老是提到Pinterest。这不是Pinterest的广告,尽管我以前确实为他们做过广告,但这次不是。好吗?

And then I turned 15 or 16, and I started to want to do my own thing. And the way that I did it was, number one, research. Pinterest was so I keep bringing up Pinterest. This is not a Pinterest advertisement even though I have done a Pinterest advertisement before, but not this is not that. K?

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真的不是。我只是太喜欢它了。这就是为什么我会和他们合作广告,因为我太爱他们了。我做了很多研究,经常泡在Pinterest上。

It's not. I just love it. Well, that's why I did that's why I did the ad with them because I love them so much. I did a lot of research. I was on Pinterest.

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我创建画板,弄清楚自己喜欢什么,这些都是免费的。让自己接触时尚,整理情绪板,所有这些在Pinterest上都是免费的。如果你想买杂志之类的,可能会贵一点。买书的话,开销会更大些。

I was making boards. I was figuring out what I liked, and that's free. Sort of exposing yourself to fashion, compiling mood boards, all of that is free, especially if you do it on Pinterest. If you wanna buy magazines and stuff like that, that's maybe a little bit more expensive. If you wanna buy books, it's a little bit more expensive.

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如果你有借书证,仍然可以去图书馆。借一本时尚书籍,甚至借五本,随便多少,然后开始翻阅。但接触时尚对于找到个人风格非常重要,不过这只能带你走这么远。关键在于你喜欢穿什么在身上,以及如何在预算有限的情况下用这些东西构建衣橱。

You could still go to the library if you have a library card. Get a fashion book out. Get five of them out, whatever, and just start looking. But exposing yourself to fashion is very important to finding your personal style, but that only really takes you so far. There's the element of what do you like on you, and how do you build a wardrobe with those things if you don't have a lot of money to spend on clothes.

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我之前提到过,去购物并试穿衣服。试穿就好,不必购买。只是要了解自己喜欢什么、什么穿在身上好看、喜欢什么材质、什么版型、什么轮廓。弄清楚这些。

I mentioned this earlier, but go shopping and try things on. Try things on. Don't have to buy them. Just educate yourself on what you like, what looks good on you, what materials you like, what fits you like, what silhouettes you like. Figure it out.

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然后,去二手店淘货。我15、16岁时没什么钱买衣服,就去二手店。我知道现在二手购物变得很流行,有些人甚至怪我。但二手购物本身成了潮流,现在二手店里的商品质量明显下降了。

And then, thrift store it up. That is when I was 15, 16, I did not have a lot of money to spend on clothes. I could go to the thrift store. I mean, I know thrifting has become like and some people even blame me for this. But like, thrifting has become trendy in itself, and now, you know, the quality of what's in the thrift stores has apparently gone down.

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而且,因为流行,二手店的价格也上涨了。我知道现在不像以前,那时你能在二手店找到真正的好东西。现在变得复杂了,人们在二手购物,买了东西又转卖。现在和过去完全不同了。

Also, thrift store prices have gone up because it's becoming trendy. So I know that it's not what it used to be, where you could go into a thrift store and find really nice stuff. And it's becoming complicated. You know, people are thrifting, and they're buying stuff, and they're reselling it. Like, it's a very different time now than it used to be.

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我很清楚这一点。但我还是偶尔会去二手店逛逛,就当是消遣。这需要挖掘,你得翻找,但依然能淘到难以置信的便宜货和好东西。

I'm very aware of that. But I still go into thrift stores and just pop around for fun sometimes. It's it's a dig. You gotta dig. You gotta look, but you can still get incredible deals and find incredible things.

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我知道这是可能的。我认为从制作情绪板和试穿衣服中学到的东西能帮你弄清楚自己在找什么。但我也觉得,二手购物时保持开放心态很重要。比如,你可能会找到一条非常符合你风格的牛仔裤,但可能有点长,或者有点宽松。

I know it's possible. I think that learn the learnings from making mood boards and trying on clothes in stores can help you sort of figure out what you're looking for. But I also think too, when thrift shopping, it's very important to keep an open mind. Like, you might find a pair of jeans that are super your style, but maybe maybe they're a little bit too long. Maybe they are a little bit baggy.

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管他呢。二手店里的东西不可能都完美。有时候你得,我不知道,调整一下。我以前会把牛仔裤的裤脚剪掉,或者如果裤子太大但很喜欢,就用鞋带在后面系一下。

Fuck it. Not everything's gonna be perfect in a thrift store. Sometimes you have to kinda I don't know. You have to, like, augment things. I used to, like, cut the bottoms off of my jeans or, you know, tie the back with a shoelace if my like, the pants were too big, I really like them.

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比如,有很多事情可以做。有时候你得发挥创意,因为二手店里没有那么多尺码可选。那里就像自由市场,但我以前就是这么做的。而且我真的觉得因为钱花得更值,我能尝试更多风格。不过也确实需要多点创意让衣服合身,或者调整成我想要的感觉。

Like, there's things you can do. You sometimes have to get creative because there's not a bunch of sizes in a thrift store. Like, it's it's it's a free for all, but that's what I used to do. And I really do feel like I was able to experiment a lot more because I could get a lot more for my money. And but I did also have to get a little bit more creative to make things, say, fit properly or make things the vibe I want them to be.

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比如我会剪短下摆、拆掉袖子,懂我意思吗?或者加颗纽扣。如果你真心想打造个人风格,而奶奶或谁有台缝纫机,去二手店淘好货再用缝纫机改造会很有趣。这超酷的。最后有人问:怎么判断该捐还是该留一件衣服?

Like, I would crop things or I'd cut the sleeves off or I'd you know what I mean? Or I'd add a button, or I'd you know, if you really are dedicated to finding your personal style. And if your grandma or somebody has a sewing machine, it could be really fun to go to the thrift store, find cool stuff, and then make tweaks to it with a sewing machine. That could be really cool. And last but not least, somebody said, what is the best way to decide if I should donate something or if I should not donate something?

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我永远猜不准以后会不会用得上。这很难,总有人会说'这个万圣节 costume 用得上'或者'过几年可能又流行了'之类的理由。

I can never tell if it will come in handy later or not. This is tough. There's always an argument for how something could come in handy later. Like, oh, this could be perfect for a Halloween costume. Oh, this might, like, become trendy again later down the line or, like, whatever.

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借口永远找得到。但决定捐掉闲置衣物时,建议问自己几个问题:第一,它百搭吗?能搭配很多单品吗?未来有没有可能更符合你的风格,能自然融入衣橱与其他衣物混搭?

There's always some sort of excuse. But I think when deciding whether to donate something that is not getting proper use or wear, I would recommend asking yourself a few questions. Number one, is it versatile? Can it be worn with a bunch of things? Is there a chance that down the line, it might be more your style, and it'll be able to seamlessly fit into your closet in a way where you can pair it with a bunch of different things?

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还是说它太特别了,一年只能穿一两次?如果特别到难以搭配,可能就该捐了。第二个问题:穿着舒服吗?不舒服的话我基本建议捐掉,除非能通过裁剪改造让它变舒服。

Or is it something so hyper specific that you only can really wear it, like, once or twice a year because it's so specific, It's just impossible to style. If it's something very hard to style, perhaps that's a donate. Next question to ask, is it comfortable? If it's uncomfortable, I almost always say donate. Unless it could be somehow tailored or augmented in some way to be more comfortable.

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穿着难受的衣服就处理掉。每个人感受不同,也许你觉得腋下太紧或面料刺痒,但别人穿可能正合适。总有人会比你喜欢它,懂我意思吧?

If something's uncomfortable, get rid of it. Everybody's different. Some people like, if if a particular shirt has, like, really tight armpits or something or the material's itchy to you, it might not be itchy or tight on somebody else. So somebody else is gonna enjoy it more than you. You know what I'm saying?

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不舒服就是——不不不不。

Discomfort is no. No. No. No. No.

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接下来,问问自己它是否经典不过时。举个很好的例子,我有一阵子没穿我的Doc Marten流苏乐福鞋了。那曾是我多年来常穿的鞋子。我暂时不穿了,就在想:该捐掉吗?毕竟真的不常穿了,但转念一想——

Next, ask yourself if it's timeless. Like, a great example would be, I kinda stopped wearing my Doc Marten tassel loafers for a bit. Those were like a go to shoe for me for years. And I kinda stopped wearing them, and I was like, oh, should I donate these? Like, I really don't wear them anymore, but I was like, you know what?

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这是双经典款鞋子。我以后还会想穿的。虽然现在看腻了,但总会重新喜欢的,所以我决定留下它们。最近它们还在车库里闲置,我刚把鞋取出来。如果是永恒经典款,我认为永远值得保留。

This is a timeless shoe. I will wanna wear these again. I'm sick of them right now, but I will wanna wear them again, so I decided to keep them. And I just recently, I had them in my garage for a little bit, and I just recently brought them out of the garage. If it's timeless, I think it's always a keep.

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如果你判定它是潮流单品,就需要思考它是否符合你的气质。它适合你吗?或许你现在不太热衷这个风格,但如果它本质上是你的风格,未来可能重新爱上它。理想情况下,我们总能在衣橱里重新发现某些单品并再次爱上它们,这完全可能发生。

If you determine that it's trendy, you then need to determine if it feels like you. Does it feel like you? You might not really be into the thing at the moment, but if it feels like you, there's a chance you might like it again later. Because ideally, we can rediscover pieces in our closet later and, like, fall in love with them again. That absolutely can happen.

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但如果这件单品大概率永远不会成为你衣橱的主力,我觉得不妨处理掉,让能真正欣赏它的人拥有。明白吗?就这些,今天的内容到此为止。希望你们喜欢这期节目。

But if the odds are stacked against the piece, and there's a really low likelihood that it'll ever be a staple in your closet, I think you might as well get rid of it and and let somebody else enjoy it who can, like, really enjoy it. You know? That's it. That's all I have for today. I hope you all enjoyed this episode.

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如果喜欢,记得《建议专场》每两周周日更新,《随心所欲》每周四和周日更新。欢迎随时收听来玩,我永远在这里等着你们。记住我永远都在。

If you did, new episode of Advice Session every other Sunday, and new episodes of Anything Goes every Thursday and Sunday. So tune in, come hang out if you want. I'm here. I'm always here. So, you know, just know that I'm here.

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对了?《随心所欲》可在所有播客平台收听。但若想看视频版,只有YouTube和Spotify提供。节目官方账号是@AnythingGoes,我个人账号@EmmaChamberlain散落在网络各处,我的咖啡品牌chamberlain coffee线上线下都有售。

Okay? You can stream Anything Goes anywhere you get podcasts. Although, if you wanna watch a video, that is only on YouTube and Spotify. Anything Goes is on social media at Anything Goes. I'm on the Internet and some places at Emma Chamberlain, and my coffee company is in the world and on the Internet at chamberlain coffee.

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爱你们所有人,感谢大家。每次相聚和提供建议都让我愉快——当然这些建议仅供参考。很快会再见的,爱你们。

I love you all. I appreciate you all. It's always a pleasure to hang out and give you advice as well that you don't need to take, but you can if you want. I'll talk to you all very soon. I love you.

Speaker 0

我很感激你。我们很快再聊。再见。好的。再见。

I appreciate you. I'll talk to you soon. Bye. Okay. Bye.

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