如何着装

在这个世界里，你被期待通过一次支持一个播客来成为媒体的赞助者，让我告诉你如何通过支持Radiotopia来最大化你的年终捐赠价值。

In this world where you're expected to be a media patron by contributing to, like, one podcast at a time, let me tell you how you can really get the most out of your year end donations by giving to Radiotopia.

Radiotopia是一个播客联合体，包含世界上一些最优秀的播客。

Radiotopia is a collective of podcasts, some of the best podcasts in the world.

我说这话并不是因为我本身就是Radiotopia的一员。

And I'm not saying that because I'm a part of Radiotopia.

在我加入之前，我就已经是这些节目的粉丝了。

I was a fan of these shows long before I joined.

我指的是《记忆宫殿》、《厨房姐妹呈现》、《正常八卦》、《八卦》、《代理》、《超聚焦》。

I'm talking about The Memory Palace, Kitchen Sisters Present, Normal Gossip, Gossip, Proxy, Hyperfix.

我可以没完没了地说下去。

I could go on and on and on.

这些是一些最古怪、最有趣的节目，可能在其他地方根本找不到容身之处。

Some of the strangest, most interesting shows that probably couldn't find a home anywhere else.

我们所有人都与Radiotopia合作。

We all work with Radiotopia.

捐赠给Radiotopia，就是在支持我的节目，也是在支持网络中的所有其他节目，确保这种模式能为未来的播客创作者延续下去，他们不想只是成为小小的乔·罗根模仿者。

A gift to Radiotopia is supporting my show and supporting all the other shows in the network, and making sure that this exists for a future generation of podcasters who don't just want to be like little Joe Rogan knockoffs.

艺术在这里的音频空间中得以存续，而这就是你确保它持续生存的方式。

This is where art lives in the audio space, and this is how you can make sure it stays alive.

前往 radiotopia.fm/donate，捐赠任何你觉得合适的金额。

Go to radiotopia.fm/donate and contribute whatever feels right to you.

非常感谢。

Thank you so much.

有时候人们会问我该穿什么、该买什么，我对此感到非常荣幸，但我无法告诉你答案。

Sometimes people ask me what they should wear or what they should buy, and I am so flattered by that question, but I cannot tell you that.

我认为没有人能替别人决定他们该穿什么。

And I don't think anyone can decide for anyone else what they should put on their body.

因为任何普遍适用的僵化时尚规则都太愚蠢了。

Because any generally applicable hard and fast fashion rule is so stupid.

不要在劳动节之后或之前穿白色衣服，或者类似的规定。

Don't wear white after Labor Day or before Labor Day or whatever it is.

你不能把棕色和黑色混在一起。

You can't mix brown and black.

别这么做。

Don't do that.

不要穿凉鞋时配袜子。

Don't wear socks with open toed shoes.

我不相信这些规则，艾米·斯米洛维奇也不相信。

I don't believe in those rules and neither does Amy Smilovic.

这些规则毫无用处。

Those are useless.

它们根本就没有任何理由。

Like, they're just for no reason.

是有人编出来的。

Someone made it up.

不。

No.

艾米·斯米洛维奇是服装品牌Tibby的创意总监兼创始人。

Amy Smilovic is the creative director and founder of the clothing brand Tibby.

你知道，我们其实并不为女演员们搭配服装。

You know, we don't really dress the actresses.

我们为剧组的工作人员和管理人员搭配服装。

We dress the people in production and management.

我们为这么多医生、神经外科医生，还有其他非常有趣的人搭配服装。

We dress so many doctors, neurosurgeons, like, really interesting people.

那些不想被那些愚蠢的、武断的时尚规则困扰的人。

People who don't wanna think about stupid arbitrary fashion rules.

我讨厌时尚规则。

I hate fashion rules.

我觉得这些规则真的会给人们带来创伤。

I think they, like, really traumify people.

这是个词吗？

Is that a word?

那不是一个词。

That's not a word.

是恐怖、创伤、创伤化。

Terrify, traumatize, traumify.

但有趣的是，艾米如此讨厌规则，她却出版了一本关于规则的书。

Although, it's funny to me that Amy hates rules so much because she kinda published a book of them.

我认为在书中，我用的是‘指南’这个词。

I think in the book, I used the words guidelines.

我特意这样做的。

I I went out of my way.

比如我记得，我把‘规则’换成同义词，然后想，我还能怎么说呢？

Like, I remember even, like, I'm putting rules into synonyms, and I'm like, what else can I say?

任何词都可以，就是不能用‘规则’。

Anything but rule.

我真的很努力地避免使用这个词。

I really try and avoid that word.

有时候指南会有帮助。

Sometimes guidelines can help.

我总是告诉人们，规则是在你遇到问题时才适用的。

I always tell people that the rules are there when you have a problem.

当你没有问题时，它就不适用。

And when you don't have a problem, it does not apply.

所以这些是可选的规则吗？

So these are optional rules?

非常可选的规则，因为它们并不是用来评判别人的。

Very optional rules because they're not rules to judge someone by.

我发现艾米的指南非常有帮助，也让人深思。

I found Amy's guidelines immensely helpful and just interesting to think about.

以至于我决定将这段对话的部分内容单独发布为一个迷你剧集，就当是餐前小点，供你寻找帮助、灵感或思考素材时享用。

So much so that I decided to just release parts of this conversation as a little miniature episode, just as a, like, amuse bouche in case you're looking for some help or inspiration or food for thought.

第一部分是关于如何打造你的衣橱，第二部分是关于如何将所有东西搭配起来。

Part one is about how to build your closet, and part two is about how to put everything together.

但当你聆听时，请记住，所有这些指南都只是可取可弃的建议。

But as you listen, know that all of these guidelines are just suggestions that can all be taken or ignored.

如果你心想：‘什么？’

If you're like, what?

我不认同这一点。

I don't agree with that.

那就忽略它。

Then ignore it.

只使用对你有帮助的部分。

Just use what serves you.

但我发现，艾米在《创意实用主义者》一书中提出的这些指南，是我听过最简洁、最精炼的关于穿什么的建议。

But I found that these guidelines from Amy's book, The Creative Pragmatist, are some of the most succinct, like, twice distilled advice I've ever heard about what to wear.

那么，我们开始吧。

So let's go.

首先，如何打造衣橱。

First, how to build a closet.

这就像逐步备齐一个良好的食品储藏室。

It's kind of like building up a good pantry.

食材才是关键。

The ingredients are everything.

我把我的衣橱分为三类。

I divide up my closet into three categories.

把你的衣橱想象成一个分为三部分的食品金字塔。

Think of your closet like a food pyramid divided into three sections.

底部最大的部分是你最需要的，中间部分少得多，顶部则是你最不需要的。

The big bottom part is what you need the most of, middle part much much fewer, and at the top is what you need the least of.

艾米为每个部分都设定了非常具体的类别，但总的来说，了解你所有衣物在金字塔中的位置很重要。

And Amy has very specific categories for each section, but generally, it's important to know where all of your clothes fall on your pyramid.

以金字塔的方式来看很有帮助，因为大多数人拥有的是倒金字塔，而这也正是他们需要开始调整的地方，以便把倒置的金字塔正过来。

Seeing it in that pyramid way is helpful because most people have an inverted pyramid, and that's where they know where they need to start so that they can get that pyramid tipped upside down.

那么，让我们从底部开始，或者说是应该位于底部的所谓基础单品。

So let's start at the bottom or what should be at the bottom, the so called basics.

好的。

Okay.

基础款是你日常穿着的单品。

So basics, they are the pieces that you live in.

它们是衣橱里最重要的部分，我认为大多数人把这一点搞反了。

So it's the most critical part of the closet, which I do think most people reverse it.

但人们通常认为的基础款就是两件T恤、一条裤子，然后在一堆漂亮衣服中随意搭配。

And the basics they see is like two T shirts, pair of, you know, like, to sprinkle in amongst all the greatness.

但事实上，这些基础款应该是你衣橱的真正基石。

But, really, those basics should be your real foundation.

但‘基础款’这个名字很有误导性，因为它们实际上并不应该单调或普通。

But but but basics is a very misleading name because they are not, in fact, supposed to be bland or basic at all.

最大的误解在于，为了让某件衣服能与你衣橱里的所有衣物完美搭配，人们以为它应该毫无个性。

That's been the biggest misnomer is that in order for something to be seamless and work with everything everything in your closet, that it should actually have no point of view.

你的基础款拥有鲜明的个性至关重要。

It is so critical that your basics have a point of view to them.

它仍然能搭配所有衣物，只是会带有你的个人风格。

It's still gonna go with everything, only it's gonna have a point of view.

那你的风格是什么？

So what's your point of view?

这才是最难的部分。

That's the hard part.

对吧？

Right?

你必须先弄清楚自己的风格，才能理解你的基础单品。

You have to figure out your style to understand your basics.

为了确定自己的风格，艾米建议用一些词语来描述它。

So to figure out your style, Amy recommends actually coming up with words for it.

如果你不给自己的风格命名，别人就会替你命名。

If you don't name your style, someone else will.

要命名你的风格，先想出三个形容词。

To name your style, come up with three adjectives.

当我开始让人们告诉我他们的形容词时，很多人第一反应是：我问我妈妈了，或者我问了我最好的朋友苏西，我就想，好吧。

When I started telling people, tell me what your adjectives are, the first thing that a lot of people started writing to me is they're well, I called my mom, or they're like, asked Susie, my best friend, and I'm like, okay.

这是最糟糕的做法。

That is the worst thing to do.

因为只有你才知道你想向世界传达什么。

Because only you know what you wanna project into the world.

想想什么对你来说是重要的。

Think about what is important to you.

这可能会让你的妈妈或苏西感到惊讶。

It might actually surprise your mom or Susie.

这必须来自你自身。

It has to come from you.

如果你感受到它，你就是它。

If you feel it, you are it.

所以，如果你觉得自己是个有创造力的人，那你就是个有创造力的人。

So if you feel like a creative person, you are a creative person.

因此，你有权利表达这一点。

And so you have a right to express that.

这一条，别去问朋友、妈妈或任何人来描述你是谁。

This one, like, not ask a friend or a mom or anyone to describe who you are.

我的意思是，你怎么找到自己的形容词呢？

I mean, how do you find what your adjectives are?

嗯，你知道的，

Well, you know,

我经常问很多人告诉我他们最喜欢的名言，因为名言确实能反映很多关于一个人的信息。

I do ask a lot of people to tell me, like, their favorite quotes, and quotes do tell a lot about people.

想想你喜欢的名言。

Think about the quotes you like.

它们是简洁精炼的吗？

Are they pithy and simple?

它们是详尽冗长的吗？

Are they elaborate and verbose?

它们有趣吗？

Are they funny?

它们严肃吗？

Are they serious?

它们富有诗意吗？

Are they poetic?

也许可以收集一些名言，然后看看它们。

Maybe gather up a few quotes and look at them.

艾米就是这么做的。

That's what Amy did.

你知道，我并没有收集到很多关于蝴蝶或整洁的名言，也很少有那种禅意的名言，而这一切都符合这个性格放松、现代且经典的人。

And, you know, I didn't get a lot of quotes about butterflies or cleanliness, and there weren't a lot of, like, zen quotes either, which all of this fits with this person who is chill, modern, and classic.

艾米意识到她的关键词是放松、现代和经典，我得承认，我第一次听到时心想：真的吗？

Amy recognized that her adjectives are chill, modern, and classic, which I have to admit when I first heard, I was like, really?

得了吧。

Come on.

这怎么能真正帮到你呢？

How can that really help you?

对我来说，这些都太笼统了。

Those seem so general to me.

所以，如果你是悠闲、现代且经典的，那么你购买的每一件物品都应该能用这三个词来描述。

So if you're chill, modern, and classic, then what you wanna do is make sure that nearly every element that you buy should be able to be described in those three ways.

以艾米那天穿的黑色西装外套为例。

Take, for example, the black blazer Amy happened to be wearing that day.

她可以用她的三个形容词来描述它。

She can describe it with her three adjectives.

它既悠闲、现代，又经典。

It's chill, modern, and classic.

我穿的是一件非常现代的夹克。

I'm wearing a very modern jacket.

它的剪裁很现代，但颜色是黑色的。

It's got a modern cut to it, but it's black.

这是一件西装外套。

It's a blazer.

它非常经典，有弹性，穿着舒适，同时又显得毫不费力。

It's very classic, and it's stretch, and it's comfortable, and it's very effortless at the same time.

所以关键在于，当你了解了自己的关键词时，每一件单品都必须真正涵盖这三个特质，才能让你感觉无比自在。

So what's key is when you know your adjectives, something needs to really encompass all three of those for you to feel so much like yourself.

我只想说，我根本不知道自己的关键词是什么，当时真的很难想出来。

May I just say, I had no idea what my adjectives were, and I was having a really hard time coming up with these.

但你可以用一个叫Indyx的应用来找到它们，I-n-d-y-x。

But a fun way you can figure it out is with this app called Indyx, I n d y x.

它有一个测验，能帮你确定自己的三个关键词。

They have a quiz to help you figure out your three adjectives.

看来很多时尚人士都相信这一点，你必须拥有这三个关键词。

So this is apparently a thing that a lot of style people believe in, that gotta you have the three adjectives.

真的，当你穿上它时，它完全体现了这三大特质，就像第二层皮肤一样，让你穿上了真实的自己。

Really, it embodies all those three things, when you put it on, it becomes your second skin, so you're putting on yourself.

所以，好的基础款应该符合你的三个形容词。

So good basics should meet your three adjectives.

这是另一部分：一个好的基础款应该能在一年四季、一天中的不同时间、不同季节的多种环境和场合中穿着。

And this is the other part, a good basic should be usable all year round in many different environments and situations at different times of day and different times of year.

我觉得一件好的西装外套夏天应该能搭配短裤和空调，整个秋季和春季我都会穿它，还可以披在肩上参加正式晚宴，去办公室穿，去杂货店和蔬菜区也穿。

I would expect a good blazer to go with me in shorts and air conditioning in the summer, and I'm gonna wear it all throughout the fall and the spring, and I'm gonna wear it black tie over my shoulders, and I'm gonna wear it in the office, and I'm gonna wear it to the grocery store and the vegetable aisle.

是的。

Yeah.

你应该多穿你的衣服。

You should wear your clothing a lot.

本质上，如果你正在考虑为你的珍贵基础款收藏——你衣橱中的主力军——添加一件单品，你可以用一个小心理清单来检查。

Essentially, if you are considering adding an item to your precious collection of rock solid basics, your foot soldiers of your wardrobe, there's this little mental checklist you can run through.

它符合我的三个形容词吗？

Does it meet my three adjectives?

它适合所有季节吗？

Is it good for all seasons?

它适合不同的活动吗？

And is it good for different kinds of activities?

如果你了解这个清单，你就能真正区分出那些你根本不会穿的东西——你可以远远地欣赏它们，而不必觉得非得拥有它们；而那些你真正喜欢、会经常穿的东西，你也会更加珍惜。

If you know that checklist, you really can distinguish between something that you're just really never gonna wear, and you can just appreciate it from a distance rather than feeling the need to own it versus something that you love and will wear a lot.

好的。

Okay.

但有些东西你就是不会经常穿。

But some things you just won't wear a lot.

比如，它可能非常季节性，或者特别专业化，又或者你想尝试一些新奇的东西，但那些东西不符合你的三个标准。

Like, maybe it's really seasonal or super specialized, or maybe you wanna branch out and try something unusual that doesn't fit in your three adjectives.

你确实想尝试新事物，进行一些实验。

You do wanna experiment, and you wanna try new things.

但那是你衣橱金字塔的下一个层级，位于基础款之上的一个明显更小的部分，艾米称之为‘可有可无’的单品。

But that's the next segment of your pyramid, the next level above basics, a significantly smaller section that Amy calls ins and outs.

我衣柜里确实有这一部分，就是用来尝试新东西的。

I definitely have that as part of my closet is being able to try things out.

有时候这些衣服会融入我永恒的衣橱，但也有其他一些东西，我买了之后穿了两三年。

It's nice sometimes that they fold into my forever wardrobe, but there are other things that I bought and I wore it for two years, maybe three years.

我一点也不后悔。

There are no regrets.

我从它们身上获得了每穿一次的成本价值。

I got my cost per wear out of it.

然后，你知道的，也许它们会被送给朋友之类的。

And then, you know, maybe it goes to a friend or something like that.

我不应该买太多这样的东西。

And I shouldn't be buying too many of them.

我脑子里并没有一个明确的数字来规定自己可以买多少，但只要明白它们的使用频率不会很高，我就能控制购买量。

And it's not that I have a number in my head of how many I allow myself to buy, but just understanding that I'm not going to get much usage out of it helps me limit it.

在金字塔最顶端，最小的部分是一些你莫名其妙保留下来的古怪衣物——它们完全不符合你的三个形容词，一年四季、任何场合都不实用，你可能几乎从不穿。

And then at the tippy tippy top of the pyramid, the smallest section are a tiny handful of strange things you just inexplicably keep, Things that probably don't meet your adjectives at all, that are not practical for any time of year or any location, that you probably will very seldom even wear.

但你就是喜欢它们。

But you just love them.

艾米称这些为必备品。

Amy calls these have to haves.

但我的衣橱里只有五六件是这样的。

But it's only like five or six pieces in my closet that are like that.

就像艾米一直留着的这个胸衣上衣。

Like this bra top thing that Amy keeps.

上面有珠饰。

It's beaded.

是薄荷绿的。

It's mint green.

我从来没穿它上过身。

I had never put it on my body once.

我喜欢它。

Like, I love it.

我永远不会把它送人。

I'm never giving it away.

我爱它。

I love it.

我有一件马塔多尔夹克，不知怎么的，它原本是我奶奶的，我猜对于她来说，这是一件必备品。

I have this Matador jacket that inexplicably belonged to my grandma, and I bet for her it was a have to have.

我觉得她从来没穿过它。

I don't think she ever wore it.

我觉得我也永远不会穿它。

I don't think I'll ever wear it.

但我爱它，我永远不会扔掉它。

But I love it, and I'm never getting rid of it.

正是金字塔顶端这几件衣服，让我想起服装可以多么有趣和奇特。

It's these few items at the top of the pyramid that remind me how fun and strange clothes can be.

所以再强调一遍，你衣橱里的大部分都是基础款。

So to reiterate, most of your closet are basics.

也就是三角形底部的那些物品，它们符合真正定义你的三个形容词。

The things at the base of the triangle that meet your three adjectives that really define you.

然后，在那之上是那些进进出出的衣物，而在金字塔顶端，只留下少数几件古怪的单品保留下来。

Then you have the ins and outs above that, then at the top of the pyramid, just a handful of weirdos to hold on to.

这就是你的衣橱。

That's your closet.

如果你正在听这段话，心里想着：天啊，这完全不像我的衣橱。

And if you're listening to this and you're like, wow, that's not what my closet feels like at all.

我需要彻底整顿。

I need an overhaul.

我得把所有东西都扔掉，从头再来。

I need to get rid of everything and start all over again.

但别着急。

Just don't rush it.

慢慢来。

Go slow.

如果你真的想添置一些基础款，那就从小处开始。

If you do wanna get new basics, just start small.

想想这五件事。

Think about these five things.

你知道吗，我会立刻去买合适的牛仔裤、合适的T恤、合适的西装外套、合适的西裤和合适的运动裤。

You know, I would right away go get the right jeans, the right tee, the right blazer, the right dress pant, and the right sweatpant.

就是这五件东西，之后你就可以好一段时间不用再买了。

Like, it's those five things, and then you're kinda done for a while.

牛仔裤、T恤、西装外套、西裤、运动裤。

Jeans, tee, blazer, dress pant, sweat pant.

你觉得你能直接去商店买齐这五件东西吗？

Do you think you can just go to a store and buy those five things?

不能。

No.

不能。

No.

我做不到。

I don't.

别一次性从一个地方把这五样全买回来。

Don't go out and buy them all at once from one place.

花点时间去找到它们，爱上它们，然后把它们穿到破。

Take time to find them, and love them, and wear the hell out of them.

很多人被告诉，如果某样东西适合你，你就买五种不同颜色，但你其实不用这么做。

A lot of people get told that if something works for you, that you take it and you, like, buy it in five different colors, and you don't.

你应该为自己找到了适合自己的东西而感到高兴，然后这件事就结束了。

You congratulate yourself that you have the thing that works for you, and now that is done.

接着，你再找其他能与之搭配的东西。

And then you have other things that work with that.

但别一直重复，否则你会觉得自己千篇一律，而那不是你想要的感觉。

But don't go on repeat because then you'll feel repetitive, and that is not how you wanna feel.

这并不是要从零开始添置东西。

It's not about starting from scratch with stuff.

而是要弄清楚，如何对已有物品进行搭配和调整，如何更聪明地整理你的衣橱。

It's just figuring out, like, how can you twist, how can you manipulate what you already have, and how can you just be smarter about putting things together in your closet.

所以这就是下一步。

So that's the next part.

然后就是关于构建纹理、颜色和类似的东西。

Then it's about building out textures and colors and things like that.

那你怎么做呢？

So how do you do that?

你如何构建纹理、颜色和类似的东西？

How do you build out textures and colors and things like that?

稍作休息，艾米会告诉你。

Quick break, and Amy will tell you.

假设你已经把衣橱整理好了。

So let's say you've got your closet all set up.

你的工具箱里有所有工具，食品柜里有所有食材，画箱里有所有颜料——再给我一个比喻吧。

You've got all your tools in your tool shed, all your ingredients in your pantry, the paint in your paint box give me another metaphor.

随便吧。

Whatever.

你有了你的原材料。

You've got your raw materials.

你该如何搭配衣物，使其整体协调、舒适，并真正体现你的风格？

How do you start to put your clothes together on yourself in a way that feels cohesive and good and comfortable and feels like you?

艾米·斯米洛维奇有很多技巧，但这两个是我最喜欢的。

Amy Smilovic has loads of tips and tricks, but these two are my favorite.

一个是关于比例的技巧，另一个是关于色彩的技巧。

One is a trick about proportion, and one is a trick about color.

但让我们先从比例这个技巧开始。

But let's start with the one about proportion.

比例其实至关重要，只是你没注意到。

Proportion is secretly really important.

很多人对自己的穿着感觉不好，是因为他们的比例失调。

What happens is a lot of people don't feel good about the way they dress because their proportions are off.

他们要么被衣服淹没，要么觉得衣服根本不合身。

They'll be drowning in their clothes, or they feel like their clothes just don't fit.

然后，人们常常把这种被衣服淹没的感觉归因于自己个子矮、体型偏胖或身材高大，每个人都会把原因归结为自身体型的不同。

And then what happens often is they will attribute the drowning feeling to I am short or I'm heavier or I'm tall and everyone will attribute it to something different about their body shape.

而我发现，无论体型如何，关键始终在于身上始终要保持大、小和贴身衣物的平衡。

And what I have found is no matter what the body shape is, it all comes down to having the balance of big, slim, and skin on the body at all times.

大、小和贴身。

Big, slim, and skin.

在搭配中，每种类型都稍微有一点会很有帮助。

In an outfit, it helps to have a little of each.

‘大’这个概念很好理解。

Big is pretty self explanatory.

它指的是厚重或宽松的衣物。

It's something chunky or oversized.

但‘小’并不等于瘦身。

But slim doesn't mean skinny.

它只是指更窄或更贴身的衣物。

It just means something narrower or tighter fitting.

例如，一件蓬松的外套就是‘大’。

For example, a puffy coat is a big.

一件羊毛外套就是‘细’。

A wool coat is a slim.

甚至到鞋子也是如此。

And even down to the shoes.

我的意思是，鞋子也是其中很重要的一部分。

I mean, shoes are a big part of it as well.

有笨重的大鞋子，也有

And there are big clunky shoes, and there

细窄的鞋子。

are slim shoes.

木屐是‘大’的。

Clogs are big.

乐福鞋是‘细’的。

Loafers are slim.

你明白我的意思吗？

You know what I mean?

有一些更大块的，也有一些更修身的。

There are, like, bigger things and slimmer things.

如果你身上太多 oversized 的衣服，你大概能感觉到，因为那时你会觉得被衣服淹没了。

And you can probably tell if you have too many oversized things on because that's when you feel like you're drowning in your clothes.

但要是太多修身的衣服，那就太无聊了。

But having too many slim things is just boring.

多样性才是打造好造型的关键。

The variety is what makes a good outfit.

比如，如果我穿了一条宽大的裤子，那上身可能会搭配一件袖子稍微收窄的夹克。

If I'm wearing big wide pants for instance, then maybe on the top, I've got a jacket that is a little more narrow through the arms.

然后露出一点点皮肤，但并不是那种性感的方式。

And then skin is revealing a little bit of skin, but not necessarily in like a sexy way.

通过露出皮肤，比如你穿了一件大夹克，袖子往上推一点，就能看到前臂，或者脚踝露出来一点点，甚至脖子露出一点。

By revealing skin, like, if you've got on a big jacket, it's just pushing up the sleeve of the jacket where you just see the forearm, or it's maybe a little bit of an ankle coming out, or maybe even a little bit of a neck.

所以这是一个有趣的技巧，大、瘦、露肤。

So that's a fun trick, big slim skin.

另一个让我印象深刻的是关于颜色的技巧。

The other one that really stuck with me is a trick with color.

这是艾米提出的一个打造和谐穿搭的想法，她称之为‘同色或全无’。

It's an idea that Amy has for how to make a harmonious outfit, and she calls this one ton or none.

当眼睛被迫四处游移时，会让人感到不安。

When your eye is forced to dart around, it's unsettling.

所以理念是，你的眼睛应该在身体的某一个位置停留。

So the idea is that your eye should land in one place on the body.

让眼睛放松的一个简单方法就是全身穿中性色。

So an easy way to let the eyes rest is to just wear entirely neutrals.

如果我穿的都是深蓝、黑色、棕色这些深色中性色调，那么当我走近时，你的眼睛就会自然停驻。

If I'm wearing, like, all shades of navy, black, brown, all these, like, dark neutrals, then if I walk up, your eye just lands.

对吧？

Right?

这显然对眼睛非常友好，因为你的衣服没有哪一件过于突出。

That's obviously really easy on the eyes because none of your garments are standing out too much.

艾米称这种风格为‘无’。

Amy calls that none.

但如果我穿着这些全部深色衣物，再搭配一条白色腰带，你的眼睛就会立刻聚焦在那条白腰带上。

But if I were wearing all of that and maybe I had on, like, a white belt, my eye is just going to one place, to just the white belt.

所以，如果你要加一点色彩，那就只加一点。

So that's one if you have one pop of color, but just one.

如果我穿着这些漂亮的深色衣物，再配上一条白腰带和一双亮绿色的鞋子，我会想：我到底该看腰带还是鞋子？

If I had on all of this beautiful dark stuff and a white belt and a bright green shoe, I'm like, am I looking at the belt?

我该看鞋子吗？

Am I looking at the shoe?

我的眼睛根本不知道该往哪儿看。

Like, it's my eye doesn't know where to look.

但相反，如果你大胆地全身搭配多种颜色，到处都是丰富的元素，眼睛在服装上移动时反而不会觉得刺眼。

But, alternatively, if you're really going for it and you just have a ton of colors and lots of things going on all over your outfit, it doesn't feel so jarring for the eye to travel.

色调的概念是你身上有，比如说

The notion of ton is that you have, like

你只是在追求

You're just going

极致。

for it.

你只是在追求极致。

You're just going for it.

而且整体太丰富了，以至于我根本不会去看腰带或鞋子，因为信息太多，我的眼睛反而安定下来，这种感觉也很舒适。

And it's so full on that, like, I'm not looking at the belt or the shoe where that like, there's so much going on that my eyes just landed, and that is really settling as well.

单一色调或全无。

One ton or none.

这只是《创意实用主义者》这本书中的众多准则之一。

That's just one of the many guidelines from the book, The Creative Pragmatist.

而所有这些规则都是可以打破的。

And that's that all these rules can be broken.

每一个都可以

Every single one of them can

被打破。

be broken.

你不必遵循这些准则。

You don't have to follow these guides.

它们只是用来帮助你的。

They're just here to help.

它们是一些小练习和方法，帮助你像厨师随意搭配一道菜那样，轻松搭配出造型。

They're little exercises and ways to get good at tossing together outfits the way a chef can just toss together a meal.

我不认为风格是与生俱来的。

I do not believe that style is something that you're born with.

我认为你必须天生具备好奇心和热情。

I think that you have to be born with curiosity and passion.

但如果你拥有这些，你就能拥有风格。

But if you have that, then you can have style.

但如果没有，你就完了。

But without that, you can't.

你完蛋了。

You're fucked.

抱歉。

Sorry.

抱歉。

Sorry.

你确实如此。

You are.

显然，如果你足够好奇，听了这么多，那你就有风格了。

And clearly, you have style if you've been curious enough to listen to all this.

艾米·斯米洛维奇的书名为《创意实用主义者》。

Amy Smilovic's book is called The Creative Pragmatist.

这本书就像是这些时尚指南的圣经和练习册。

It's like a bible and a workbook for these fashion guidelines.

我在 articlesofinterest.substack.com 上提供了图片和摘录。

I've got pictures and excerpts at articlesofinterest.substack.com.

在 Substack 上，我还会向你展示 Index 为我提出的三个形容词。

Also on the substack, I will show you my three adjectives that index came up with for me.

我觉得这些形容词非常贴切。

I think the adjectives were pretty bang on.

我非常印象深刻。

I was very impressed.

衷心感谢 Tibby 的 Brittany Milio 让这一切成为可能。

Thank you so much to Brittany Milio of Tibby for making this all happen.

当然，也要感谢我的倾诉对象 Charles McFarlane。

And thanks, of course, to my sounding board, Charles McFarlane.

非常感谢你耐心听完这个有趣的小短剧，下次我会带来真正的内容。

And thank you very much for humoring this fun little mini episode, and I will be back for real next time.

来自 PRX 的 Radio Tokyo。

Radio Tokyo from PRX.