奇异同袍：美国军方如何塑造了我们的穿着

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This is Planet Money from NPR.

前几天，我带了几副双筒望远镜去下曼哈顿区，与时尚记者艾弗里·特鲁夫曼会面。

The other day, I brought a couple pairs of binoculars to Lower Manhattan to meet up with fashion reporter Avery Truffleman.

我们准备在那里进行一些都市观鸟活动。

We were there to do a little bit of urban birding.

你是个观鸟爱好者吗？

Are you a big birder?

我不做户外活动。

I don't do outdoorsy things.

这不是我的本性。

It's not in my nature.

我不是个喜欢户外活动的人。

I'm not an outdoorsy guy.

幸运的是，艾弗里为我们破例了，因为我们实际上并不是去观察羽毛绚丽的候鸟。

Luckily, Avery made an exception for us because we were not, in fact, heading out to spot migratory birds with spectacular plumage.

不是。

No.

不是。

No.

不是。

No.

我们在寻找一些非常特别的服装。

We were on the hunt for some very particular kinds of clothing.

可以说时尚就是你的'罗马帝国'吗？

Would it be fair to say that fashion is kind of your Roman empire?

是的。

Yeah.

我会说时尚就是我的罗马帝国。

I would say fashion is my Roman empire.

要知道，艾弗里是一档名为《兴趣物品》播客的主持人，这档节目专门揭示我们穿着背后隐藏的历史。

You see, Avery is the host of a podcast called Articles of Interest, which is all about unraveling the hidden histories behind the things we wear.

她深入探讨过为什么女装过去没有口袋，或者常春藤联盟的预科生风格如何在日本流行起来等问题。

She's done deep dives into the question of why women's clothing didn't used to have pockets or how preppy Ivy League style got big in Japan.

我想和艾弗里聊聊，因为她最新一季节目讲述了一个巨大而隐秘的力量如何在过去大半个世纪里，以我们大多数人可能不了解的方式塑造了我们所有人的穿着。

I wanted to talk to Avery because her latest season is all about how a massive shadowy force has been shaping the stuff we all wear for the better part of the last century in ways that most of us might not know about.

你可能会问，那个隐秘的力量是什么？

And what is that shadowy force, you might ask?

美国军方。

The United States military.

美国军方。

The United States military.

现在人们普遍知道，许多定义我们日常生活的最资源密集型技术最初都始于政府资助的军事研发实验室，从核裂变到GPS再到互联网。

It is kind of common knowledge at this point that many of the most resource intensive technologies that define our daily lives began in government funded labs as military R and D, from nuclear fission to GPS to the Internet.

但艾弗里发现，同样的军工复合体影响还以某种方式塑造了更为私密的许多事物。

But what Avery found is that that same military industrial influence has shaped many things that are even more intimate in a way.

那些我们用来表达自我认知或抵御恶劣天气的贴身衣物。

The very clothing we wear to express our sense of who we are or to protect ourselves from the elements.

这种隐秘的影响至今仍能在街头看到，只要你具备那种

And it's the kind of hidden influence you can actually see on the street today, if you have the right kind of

眼光。

eye.

是啊。

Yeah.

要不要去散个步？

Do you want to take a little walk?

好的。

Yeah.

我们走吧。

Let's do it.

我们散个小步吧。

Let's take a little walk.

艾弗里和我在苏豪区开始了我们的散步。

Avery and I start our walk in Soho.

这个街区以高端时尚闻名。

The neighborhood is known for its high fashion.

每隔几家店面就能看到精品店。

There are fancy boutiques every few storefronts.

我们过马路吧。

Let's cross the street.

那我们就走走吧。

Well, let's take a walk.

但最近，这里也被穿着昂贵户外装备的人占据了。

But these days, it's also been taken over by people wearing expensive outdoor gear.

比如始祖鸟的雨衣或北面的羽绒服。

Think Arc'teryx rain jackets or North Face puffies.

哦，快看。

Oh, and look.

她穿着迷彩裤。

She's wearing camo pants.

多么完美啊。

How perfect.

我们正站在巨大的砖砌REI商店的阴影下。

We're standing in the shadow of the monolithic brick REI store.

顺便说一下，REI是NPR的财务支持者。

By the way, REI is a financial supporter of NPR.

艾弗里开始指出这些时尚界军事历史的所有服装暗示。

And Avery starts to point out all these sartorial hints of the fashion world's military past.

那些我刚才还没注意到的东西，比如我从未听说过的店面。

Things that I'd failed to notice just a moment before, like storefronts I'd never heard of.

天啊。

Oh my god.

阿尔法工业就在那儿。

And Alpha Industries is right there.

那边有个很有意思的案例。

That's a fascinating case there.

那些是弹药箱吗？

Are those ammo cans?

是啊。

Yeah.

就像，这是个军事主题的商店。

Like, the it's like a military themed store.

我明白了。

I see.

他们过去是生产军装的。

And they used to make military clothes.

他们曾是二十世纪军队的供应商。

Like, they were a supplier to the military in the in the twentieth century.

远处，艾弗里让我注意一个穿着合成羽绒派克大衣的女人。

In the distance, Avery directs my attention to a woman wearing a synthetic down parka.

看那边，那件时髦的粉色羽绒服，她还配了粉色靴子。

Like, see that, stylish looking pink puffer, and she's got the pink boots.

让我把望远镜拿出来。

Let me get my binoculars out.

她...她已经走远了。

She's she's got moving far away.

是啊，她现在正在移动中。

She's, yeah, she's in motion right now.

艾弗里告诉我，就连那也是这个大故事的一部分。

Even that, Avery told me, was part of this bigger story.

人造羽绒的概念最初是由军方开创的。

The idea of artificial down was pioneered by the military.

真的吗？

Really?

是的。

Yeah.

后来这项技术被一家名为Primaloft的公司剥离并投入生产，最初通过L品牌面向平民大众市场销售。

And then it was peeled off and manufactured by a company called Primaloft, which first marketed to civilians, to the mass market through L.

L。

L.

Bean。

Bean.

我们周围似乎处处都能看到军方如何塑造我们日常生活用品的痕迹。

All around us, there seem to be these signs of how the military has shaped the literal fabric of our daily lives.

艾弗里说，这种影响远不止迷彩运动裤那么简单。

And Avery says that influence is a lot bigger than just camo sweatpants.

这是一切。

It's everything.

这是你穿的所有衣物。

It's everything you wear.

毫不夸张地说，你穿的全都是军用技术产物，亚历克西。

It's literally everything you're wearing, Alexi.

比如，你的夹克。

Like, it's your jacket.

你的卡其裤。

It's your khaki pants.

你的针织帽。

It's your beanie cap.

那些叠穿的内层。

It's the layers.

这这这...你全身行头都是。

It's it's it's everything you're wearing.

艾弗里指着我夹克袖口的魔术贴绑带、用来收紧兜帽的塑料绳扣，以及我高领衫上的功能性面料。

Avery points to the Velcro straps on the sleeve of my jacket, the plastic cord lock used to cinch up the hood, the performance fabric on my turtleneck.

她说，这些都是军事影响的残余痕迹。

All vestiges, she says, of the military's influence.

所以你是说我们都属于这种军事服装体系的一部分，即使我们自己都没意识到？

So you're saying we're all part of this kind of military sartorial complex even if we, don't realize it?

没错。

Yeah.

这些都是军装的变种款式。

This is all versions of military clothes.

就像你一旦开始注意到这点，就再也无法忽视它。

Like, you can't unsee it once you start seeing it.

大家好，欢迎来到《金钱星球》节目。

Hello, welcome to Planet Money.

我是亚历克西·霍洛维茨·加齐。

I'm Alexei Horowitz Gazi.

我是艾弗里·特雷费尔曼，《兴趣物件》的主持人。

I'm Avery Trefelman, host of articles of interest.

这是一个关于时尚的播客节目。

It's a podcast about fashion.

艾弗里，我们邀请你暂时加入《金钱星球》节目，分享一些你在新一季中讲述的关于我们日常穿着背后故事的精彩纷呈、引人入胜的趣闻。

And, Avery, we asked you to hop over to Planet Money for a bit to share a little bit of this wild, shaggy yarn you spin in your new season about the backstory behind a lot of the clothing we all wear.

没错。

Yeah.

这是关于军队与户外产业的交汇点。

It's about the intersection of the military and the outdoor industry.

所以今天节目的主题是：军需剩余品经济学。

So today on the show, army surplus economics.

军事设计如何从前线士兵渗透到反战游行中的嬉皮士，再到香蕉共和国门店排队的中产阶级。

How military designs trickle down from the soldiers on the front lines to the hippies on the war protest line to the yuppies in line at Banana Republic.

以及为何你钟爱的户外品牌可能同时低调扮演着美军供应商的角色。

And why some of your favorite outdoor brands may just be moonlighting as American military suppliers while keeping it as under the radar as they can.

艾弗里在我们节目新一季中讲述的故事堪称史诗，横跨七集内容，从独立战争一直讲到数码迷彩的发明。

Now the yarn that Avery spins in the new season of our show is an epic tale, woven over seven episodes from the Revolutionary War to the invention of digital camouflage.

今天，我们将重点关注军事设计如何改变了我们许多人的着装方式和户外活动方式。

Today, we're gonna focus on the way that military designs have changed the way that many of us dress and spend time outdoors.

那么，军队、装备行业与时尚界这种奇特交织的故事究竟始于何处？

So where does the story of this strange entwinement between the military, the gear industry, and the world of fashion begin?

我认为要从美国建国时期说起。

I mean, I think it starts in the founding of The United States.

但在现代，这确实要追溯到第二次世界大战。

But in the modern era, it really comes from World War two.

这场灾难性事件重塑了现代生活的方方面面，每个行业都参与了战争，包括服装业。

I mean, it was this, like, cataclysmic event that shaped every single part of modern life, and every single industry got involved in the war effort, including the clothing industry.

它从根本上改变了每个人的着装方式，包括士兵和平民。

And it fundamentally changed how everybody dressed, including soldiers and eventually civilians.

要知道，在美国历史的前150年里，其军装风格基本沿袭了欧洲军队的服饰传统。

You see, for the first century and a half of its history, the US military more or less took its sartorial cues from the militaries of Europe.

革命军基本上采用了英国著名红色军服的设计，只是将其改为蓝色，部分原因显然是因为美国种植园生产了大量靛蓝染料。

The revolutionary army basically took the design for the famous British red coats and turned them blue, in part apparently because of how much indigo was produced on American plantations.

后来，我们的士兵穿着类似法军的服装，甚至还有一段时期美国军官戴着像普鲁士军队那样的尖顶小头盔。

Later, our soldiers dressed like the French, and there was even a period when American officers wore pointy little helmets like the Prussian military.

但当二战来临时，这给负责装备美军的人员提出了一个新型难题，需要采用更具技术性的解决方案。

But when World War two arrived, it presented a new kind of problem for the people in charge of outfitting US soldiers, one that called for a more technological approach.

这是一场全球性冲突，数百万美军士兵可能被部署到各种不同气候和地形中作战，从环太平洋地区的温暖夏季到西欧的严寒冬季。

This was a global conflict where millions of American soldiers would be potentially deployed to fight in all kinds of different climates and terrains, ranging from the balmy summers of the Pacific Rim to the frigid winters of Western Europe.

负责解决这个问题的人之一是一位名叫乔治·多里奥的哈佛商学院教授。

And one of the people tasked with solving this problem was a Harvard Business professor by the name of George Dorio.

乔治·多里奥是谁？

Who is George Dorio?

他是位法国人，后来成为哈佛大学的美国教授。

He's this Frenchman turned American professor at Harvard.

他，是风险投资的创始人。

He, is the founder of venture capital.

这就是他的重要成就。

That's his big thing.

此后，他继续过着富足且极其成功的生活。

He went on to lead a rich and wildly successful life after this.

这与他后续所做的一切都毫不相干。

This is so not important to anything else about what he goes on to do.

但就我们的故事而言，重要的是乔治·多里奥曾与美军军需部队合作。

But for the purposes of our story, what's important is that George Dorio worked with a part of the military known as the United States Quartermaster Corps.

这个部门基本上负责所有后勤事务。

Which is the department responsible for essentially all the logistics.

他们可以称之为靴子、豆子和子弹。

They can call it like boots, beans, and bullets.

他们确保部队有饭吃、有车坐、有衣穿。

They make sure that the troops are fed and that they're transported and that they're clothed.

乔治·多里奥主动协助在军需部队内组织了一项科研行动，运用哈佛大学生理系等机构发展出的测试技术，来解决军队面临的新装备问题。

George Dorio took it upon himself to help organize a scientific effort within the Quartermaster Corps to solve this new gear problem the military was facing, employing many of the testing techniques that had emerged in places like the physiology department at Harvard.

于是军需部队建立了一系列实验室。

And so the Quartermaster Core created a bunch of laboratories.

他们邀请了哈佛登山俱乐部这样的组织。

They brought in, like, the Harvard Mountaineering Club.

他们招募了一批户外运动专家，包括一些著名的户外人士。

They brought in a bunch of outdoorsmen, like famous outdoorsmen.

他们聘请了艾迪·鲍尔和L.L.比恩（即里昂·里昂伍德·比恩）的服务。

They brought in the services of the guy, Eddie Bauer, and the man, L.

L.

L.

比恩，就是里昂·里昂伍德·比恩。

Bean, like Leon Leon Wood Bean.

他们组织了前往阿拉斯加的测试探险活动。

And they ran these test expeditions to Alaska.

军需部队曾设计了一个铜制人体模型，用于测试士兵在不同环境下可能遭受的寒冷或潮湿程度。

At one point, the quartermaster corps designs a copper mannequin they can use to test out how cold or wet the soldiers might get when subjected to different kinds of conditions.

他们给这个人体模型取名叫昌西。

They named the mannequin Chauncey.

这个人体模型的型号名称就是昌西。

The model of the mannequin's name was Chauncey.

当时有多个昌西模型。

There were multiple Chaunceys.

他们有一组昌西模型，但这些铜制模型都能通过皮肤感知穿着不同夹克时的寒冷程度。

They had a team of Chaunceys, but they all had, like, copper skin that could tell how cold they were getting in different jackets.

是的。

Yes.

说实话，昌西的样子挺吓人的。

And for what it's worth, Chauncey is terrifying looking.

他身上还连着各种外露的电线。

He's got these, like, wires sticking out of his body.

你能找到一些老照片，比如昌西在低温实验室里穿着夹克，被拿着记录板的工作人员观察的样子。

You can find these old pictures of, like, Chauncey in the cold lab being, like, observed by men with clipboards, you know, and, like, Chauncey's wearing a jacket.

在让昌西和其他人经历了数月的恐怖测试方案后，军需工程师们意识到，可能并不存在一件能适用于所有情况的外套。

After months of subjecting Chauncey and others to this terrifying testing regimen, the quartermaster engineers realize there may not actually be just one jacket to rule them all.

于是他们提出了这个惊人的概念——分层着装。

And so they come up with this incredible thing called layering.

什么？

What?

什么？

What?

这让所有人都震惊不已。

It blows everybody's mind.

显然，人类从旧石器时代就开始以某种形式分层着装，比如有人会在剑齿虎皮外套外面再披一件猛犸象毛斗篷。

Now people have obviously been layering in some form or another since the Paleolithic era when somebody threw a woolly mammoth poncho over their saber tooth tiger skin.

但艾弗里表示，这是首次将野外性能分层着装发展成完整体系，一个围绕某种简易橄榄绿外套构建的系统。

But Avery says this is the first time layering for field performance was turned into a whole system, a system built around a sort of simple olive green jacket.

这款改变游戏规则的外套及其配套系统被称为m43。

This game changing jacket and jacket system is called the m 43.

M代表型号，43表示它诞生于1943年，就是那件绿色军用野战夹克。

M stands for model, 43 because it was made in 1943, and it's just the green army field jacket.

它有四个口袋，胸前两个，臀部两个。

It's got four pockets, two at the chest, two at the hip.

腰部有抽绳设计。

It cinches at the waist.

你到处都能见到它。

You've seen it everywhere.

现在几乎每个服装公司都会推出它的复刻版。

Like, every company now makes a version of it.

它实在太经典了。

It is so classic.

说实话我以前从没注意过它。

I had honestly never thought about it before.

但在1943年，这件M43夹克代表着服装技术的尖端——一套可根据不同环境灵活调整的模块化系统。

But in 1943, this m 43 jacket represented the cutting edge of clothing technology, a modular system that could be transformed to fit almost any environment.

有应对寒冷天气的填充层，还有防雨雪的波尔卡加层。

There was padding for cold weather, a Porka addition for rain and snow.

军队现在拥有了一种可以轻松适应从热带到阿尔卑斯山各种战斗环境的装备。

And the military now had something that could be easily adapted for battles from the tropics to the Alps.

他们几乎立即开始大规模生产M43野战夹克，以及数以吨计的其他户外装备，旨在让数百万士兵在未来数年内保持最佳战斗状态。

Almost immediately, they got to work mass producing the m 43 field jacket, along with literal tons of other outdoor gear, all meant to keep millions of soldiers as fighting fit as possible for years into the future.

即使在1945年纳粹德国投降后，军需部队仍在继续生产物资，因为太平洋战争仍在激烈进行。

Even after the surrender of Nazi Germany in the 1945, the Quartermaster Corps kept producing supplies because the war was still raging in the Pacific.

在她的系列节目中，艾弗里与一位历史学家谈论了这个关键时刻，我们在这里播放一小段。

In her series, Avery talks to a historian about this very moment, and we're just gonna play a little bit here.

我们现在知道二战是以原子弹投放到日本而结束的，但当时没人能预料到这点。

We know now how World War two ends with the droppings of the atomic bombs on Japan, but, you know, no one was planning for that.

这位是查尔斯·麦克法兰，一位服装历史学家兼记者，他的硕士论文部分研究了野战夹克的发展历程。

That's Charles McFarlane, a costume historian and journalist who wrote his master's thesis in part on the development of the field jacket.

而曼哈顿计划显然是个秘密。

And the Manhattan Project was, obviously, a secret.

美国军方绝大多数人并不知道原子弹正在研发中，更不用说它即将在1945年被投放到广岛和长崎。

The vast majority of the United States military didn't know the atomic bomb was being developed, let alone that it was about to be dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki in 1945.

因此政府仍在为战争可能持续到1946年甚至1947年的设想生产服装。

So the government was still producing clothing for the idea of a war dragging well into 1946, if not 1947.

当时为进攻日本做了大量物资和服装的准备，预计这将消耗大量生命和补给。

There was a huge ramp up of supplies and clothing in preparation for an invasion of Japan, which was expected to suck up a massive amount of lives and supplies.

战争尚未结束之时，其终结便无法预料。

For the war's end cannot be anticipated while it's still being fought.

军需部队的职责是通过在国内外提供食物、燃料、服装和装备，确保美国军队的成功运作。

The Quartermaster Corps is charged with assuring the successful operation of the Army of the United States by providing food, fuel, clothing, and equipment at home and abroad.

当时约有1200万美国人服役，每人都会配发四季服装，从袜子、内衣到靴子、帽子一应俱全。

You have basically 12,000,000 Americans in uniform, and each of them is given clothing for all four seasons, from socks to underwear to boots to hats.

更不用说所有的M43夹克、背包、帐篷和装备了。

Not to mention all the m 43 jackets and backpacks and tents and gear.

军需部门的运作规模如此之大，以至于超过25%的棉纺织业现在都在为军需核心部门生产。

So great is the extent of the Quartermaster operations that over 25% of the cotton textile industry is now producing for the Quartermaster core.

甚至在战争结束前，美国政府就宣称拥有1600万磅的过剩衣物，更不用说700万管牙膏、2500万把折叠椅和17000只信鸽。

Even before the end of the war, the United States government claimed it had 16,000,000 pounds of surplus clothing, not to mention 7,000,000 tubes of toothpaste, 25,000,000 folding chairs, and 17,000 homing pigeons.

但在1945年8月，随着广岛和长崎遭受毁灭性轰炸，战争出人意料地突然结束了。

But in August 1945, the war came to a surprisingly abrupt end after the devastating bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

艾弗里解释道，美军突然面临一个巨大的新问题。

All of a sudden, Avery explains, the US military had a huge new problem.

所有这些疯狂的生产意味着他们现在积压着大量过剩的衣物和装备。

All that frenetic production meant they now had a massive oversupply of clothing and gear just sitting around.

军方是如何决定解决手头这些过剩物资问题的呢？

And how did the military decide to solve this problem of all of this surplus stuff on their hands?

他们决定尽快低价抛售这些物资。

They decided to sell it off and, like, as cheaply and quickly as possible.

新成立的战争资产管理局负责监督所有剩余物资的销售工作。

A new agency called the War Assets Administration was put in charge of overseeing the sale of all surplus property.

引用《军需官评论》1947年的一篇文章：想象一个能存放价值百万美元物资的仓库。

To quote a 1947 article from the Quartermaster Review, imagine a warehouse capable of holding a million dollars worth of property.

需要34,000座这样的建筑才能容纳战时资产管理局的全部库存。

It would take 34,000 such buildings to accommodate the war assets administration's total inventory.

那么，面对堆积如山的物资，你打算怎么处理呢？

So, you know, what are you gonna do with all of this mountains of stuff?

显然，到处都有仓库。

Apparently, there are warehouses all over the place.

堆满了装备，塞得满满当当。

Shock a block with gear.

这位是男装界的标志性人物G·布鲁斯·博耶。

This is menswear icon g Bruce Boyer.

我是G·布鲁斯·博耶，时尚记者，也是多本时尚书籍的作者。

I'm g Bruce Boyer, a fashion journalist and author of several books on fashion.

我们都在军品店买过衣服。

We all bought clothes at the army navy store.

每个人都是。

Everyone's.

价格很便宜。

It was cheap.

你知道吗？

You know?

二战前，军需品商店是罕见的奇观。

Army surplus stores were rare oddities before World War two.

二战后，它们如雨后春笋般涌现。

After World War two, they explode.

它们遍地开花，因为收购大量廉价库存太容易了。

They are everywhere because it is so easy to buy up large amounts of cheap inventory.

根据1946年1月《新闻周刊》的报道，仅一个月内，战争资产管理局就售出了400万双棉袜和羊毛袜、189.5万套工作服、1万件卡其衬衫、88.4万件海军雨衣以及5000件派克大衣。

In just one month, according to a January 1946 Newsweek article, the War Assets Administration sold off 4,000,000 pairs of cotton and wool socks, 1,895,000 pairs of work clothes, 10,000 khaki shirts, 884,000 navy raincoats, 5,000 parkas.

我还能继续列举。

I could keep going.

这仅仅是一个月的销量。

This was all in one month.

这些东西简直便宜得跟白送一样。

It was all for a song.

战争资产管理局巴不得赶紧处理掉这些物资。

The war assets administration could not get rid of this stuff fast enough.

我认识一些人买了袜子、内衣等各种东西。

I knew guys that bought socks and underwear and everything.

那里什么都有。

Everything there.

是啊。

Yeah.

二战后，可以说有整整一代人把它当作买内衣、牛仔裤和袜子的首选去处。

After World War two, I would say there's a generation that just saw it as, like, the place to get underwear and, like, a place to get jeans and socks.

所以军用品店就像是五十年代的优衣库或H&M？

So the army surplus store was kinda like the Uniqlo or H and M of the nineteen fifties?

没错。

Yeah.

没错。

Exactly.

它就是五十年代的优衣库。

It was the Uniqlo of the fifties.

你懂吗？

You know?

你需要什么，

You need something.

直接去军需品商店就行。

You just go to the surplus store.

除了帮助新一代美国消费者解决穿衣问题外，艾弗里表示这股军需品热潮还助推了新兴户外行业的发展。

And in addition to helping clothe a new generation of American consumers, Avery says this massive surge of army surplus also served to turbocharge a nascent outdoors industry.

许多我们今天熟知并喜爱的装备公司，最初都是靠销售军需品起家的，或者说他们通过销售军需品来充实库存。

A lot of gear companies that we know and love today got their start by selling surplus, or they sort of padded their inventory by selling surplus.

比如REI就是个很好的例子。

Like, REI was a great example.

REI，你知道的，他们已经存在很长时间了。

REI, you know, they're they've been around for a long time.

他们自三十年代就已存在，但他们合作社的一名成员是退伍军人，能够提前获取一些军用剩余物资。

They've been around since the thirties, but a member of their coop was a veteran and was able to get, like, early access to some of the surplus stuff.

对于一家年轻公司来说，这真是个好方法——除了生产自己的产品外，还能提供军用剩余物资。

And this was a really great way for a young company, you know, in addition to making their own stuff, to be like, and you can also get surplus here.

你知道吗？

You know?

就像突然之间，他们的货架变得充实多了。

It's like, oh, their shelves are suddenly much more full.

他们一边销售剩余物资，一边制造自己的装备。

And they were sort of making their own gear alongside selling the surplus.

这对许多公司来说都是巨大的福音。

It was a great boon for a lot of companies.

他们乘上了剩余物资的浪潮。

They rode the wave of the surplus.

是啊。

Yeah.

没错。

Yeah.

完全正确。

Totally.

这就引出了军事对日常风格影响的第二个篇章。

Which brings us to the second chapter in the story of the military's influence on everyday style.

到1965年，美国已卷入另一场重大战争——越南战争。

By 1965, The United States had entered yet another major war, the Vietnam War.

艾弗里说军需法庭对他们的分层夹克系统进行了重大更新。

And Avery says the Quartermaster Court made a major update to their layered jacket system.

新型号m65保留了经典的橄榄绿色调和前襟类似的口袋阵列，但新增了魔术贴袖带和可收纳风帽的领子等特性。

The new model called the m 65 had the same classic olive green color and a similar array of pockets on the front, but it also had new features like Velcro sleeve straps and a collar with a stowaway hood.

许多更新后的m65夹克最终流入了军需剩余物资的流通体系。

And many of those updated m 65 jackets eventually found their way into the army surplus ecosystem.

很快，这些标志性的军装夹克就出现在了反文化运动中。

Pretty soon, these iconic military jackets were showing up in the counterculture.

约翰·列侬和简·方达等名人被看到穿着M65夹克之类的服装。

People like John Lennon and Jane Fonda were seen wearing things like the m 65 jacket.

你会看到反战抗议者穿着与他们同时代人在越南前线穿的一模一样的夹克，只是这次背后多了个和平标志。

You'd see anti war protesters sporting the exact same jackets their contemporaries were wearing on the front lines in Vietnam, just this time with a peace sign on the back.

艾弗里表示，到了七十年代，这种叛逆讽刺的军剩风格变得越来越流行。

Avery says that by the nineteen seventies, this rebellious ironic army surplus style started to grow more and more popular.

七十年代时，他们开始售卖带有额外补丁的贝雷帽和军装夹克。

In the seventies, they're selling berets and military jackets with extra patches on them.

军装风格俨然成为了一种潮流趋势。

It's like the military look becomes this trend.

军剩服装从美国人获取基本装备的渠道，变成了这种时髦的亚文化。

Army surplus goes from a way Americans got their basics to this kind of chic subculture.

全国各地开始涌现出一波新的精品店。

A new wave of boutique starts to pop up around the country.

他们销售经过改良、风格化的军需服装。

They sell modified, stylized surplus outfits.

其中一家店铺最终将成为美国最具辨识度的品牌之一。

And one of these stores would eventually become one of the most recognizable brands in The US.

为了了解这段历史，我采访了一位名叫帕特里夏·齐格勒的女性。

And to hear about how this happened, I talked to a woman named Patricia Ziegler.

军需品商店以低价出售商品，而我认为如果我们加入时尚元素，同样的商品可以卖出更高价格。

The surplus stores were selling things for the lower prices, and I figured that we could actually sell the same pieces for a lot more if we added style.

起初帕特里夏本人并不热衷军需品。

Initially, Patricia wasn't a fan of military surplus herself.

我当时是个坚定的反战人士，因为正值越战时期，我的朋友们陆续被征召入伍。

I was such an anti war person because it was the Vietnam War period, and my friends were getting drafted.

所以我对军用剩余物资实在没什么好感。

So I didn't really have a warm feeling about military surplus.

1970年代时，帕特里夏还是一名艺术家。

In the nineteen seventies, Patricia was an artist.

她当时在《旧金山纪事报》担任内部插画师，正是在那里开始与一位名叫梅尔的记者约会。

She was working in house as an illustrator at the San Francisco Chronicle, and that's where she started dating a reporter named Mel.

我遇到了梅尔，他经常在军需品商店购物。

I met Mel, and he would buy things at surplus stores.

梅尔和帕特里夏坠入爱河后，双双辞去了朝九晚五的工作。

Mel and Patricia fell in love, and together, they quit their nine to five jobs.

我们想看看这个世界。

We wanna see the world.

所以我们辞职了，但自由职业有时候确实挺艰难的。

And so we quit, but then freelancing, know, can get a little tough.

他们只想赚够钱来维持绘画、写作和旅行。

They just wanted to make enough money to paint and write and travel.

但后来梅尔在澳大利亚接到了新的自由撰稿任务。

But then Mel got another freelance assignment in Australia.

他回来时穿着件英式缅甸夹克。

And when he came back and he was wearing this British Burma jacket.

梅尔是在那边的剩余物资商店买到它的。

Mel had gotten it at a surplus shop down there.

对帕特丽夏来说，这件夹克有种与众不同的气质。

And to Patricia, this jacket had a really different vibe.

我立刻注意到了它，不是因为它的军装风格。

And I noticed it right away, not because it looked military.

它看起来非常像粗犷的狩猎装。

It looked really safari rugged.

梅尔穿上这件夹克显得特别英俊潇洒。

Mel looked really dashing and swashbuckling in this jacket.

帕特丽夏更换了纽扣并添加了麂皮补丁。

Patricia changed the buttons and added suede patches.

补丁。

Patches.

在某个时刻，我们说：这就是我们的事业。

And at a certain point, we said, this is our business.

我们得找到更多这样的夹克。

We've gotta find more of these jackets.

好的。

Okay.

他们没找到梅尔在澳大利亚发现的那款完全相同的夹克，但在加州已尽力寻找了。

They couldn't find those exact jackets that Mel found in Australia, but they did the best they could in California.

军用品是个隐秘的世界。

Surplus is kind of a secret world.

你得找到经销商才行。

You have to find the dealer.

我们当然找到了，梅尔作为记者做了大量调研。

And we did, of course, Mel being a journalist, researched a lot.

他们发现当地有个经销商在清仓500件西班牙军用伞兵衬衫——细想也合理。

They found a local dealer who was offloading 500 Spanish military paratrooper shirts, which makes sense when you think about it.

弗朗哥刚在1975年去世。

Franco had just died in 1975.

西班牙正在清理前政权留下的剩余物资。

Spain was getting rid of surplus from the last regime.

梅尔和帕特里夏买下了全部500件衬衫。

Mel and Patricia bought all 500 shirts.

我们两人银行账户里只剩1500美元了。

We had $1,500 left in our bank account between the two of us.

所以这是一笔相当大的投资。

So this was a substantial investment.

他们在索萨利托的跳蚤市场卖这些衬衫。

And they sold these shirts at the Sausalito flea market.

我给梅尔穿上一件，卷起袖子、竖起领子，我自己穿上一件配紧身牛仔裤并系上腰带，我们卖出了100多件。

I put one on Mel with the sleeves rolled up and the collar turned up, and I put on one with tight jeans and belted it, and we sold over a 100.

这些只是风格上的小点缀，但帕特丽夏和梅尔需要的正是这些亮点来脱颖而出。

It was just little touches of style, but these flourishes were all Patricia and Mel needed to stand out.

于是我回家拆了两件衬衫，把它们拼在一起做成了一件四口袋的狩猎裙。

So I went home and took two shirts apart and put them together to make a four pocket safari dress.

还有一些，我拆掉了肩章做成腰带，去掉了袖子。

And some other ones, I took off the epaulettes and made a waistband, took off the arms.

我说，我们这是在为裁军尽一份力呢。

I said, doing our part for disarmament here.

我们还做了一条裙子。

And we made a skirt.

于是梅尔说，哦，我们有生意了，并找到了一家400平方英尺的店铺。

And so Mel said, oh, we've got a business and found a store that was 400 square feet.

1978年，帕特丽夏和梅尔在米尔谷开了家小店。

In 1978, Patricia and Mel set up a tiny shop in Mill Valley.

我开始裁剪夹克和睡袋，我们开始给东西染色。

I started cutting up jackets and sleeping bags, we started dying things.

我们还卖过像防毒面具包这样的东西，虽然里面没有防毒面具了，但它们成了很棒的手提包。

And also, we'd sell, like, gas mask bags that didn't have any gas masks in them anymore, but they made great purses.

这只是换个新视角看事物的问题。

It was just a matter of looking at things in a fresh way.

当时有不少类似的小型精品店。

There were a number of boutiques like this.

比如华盛顿的'蝾螈指挥官'、纽约的'驾驶舱'、洛杉矶的'比佛利山庄营地'，这些店铺都热衷于改造、重剪、重染军需剩余物资。

There was Commander Salamander in DC, the Cockpit in New York, Camp Beverly Hills in LA, all who stalked, recut, redyed, zhuzhed up military surplus.

这种现象如此盛行，甚至被《周六夜现场》拿来恶搞。

It was such a phenomenon that it was actually spoofed on Saturday Night Live.

我搞到了罗德西亚迷彩服。

I got Rhodesian fatigues.

还有意大利迷彩夹克。

I got the the Italian camouflage jackets.

孩子们对它们爱不释手。

The kids are crazy about them.

这些衣服卖得跟热煎饼一样快。

They're buying them like hotcakes.

与此同时，军装也开始雅痞化了。

At this point too, we have the yuppification of military clothing.

正如查尔斯·麦克法兰对我所说，那些在六十年代穿着野战夹克的学生们长大了。

As Charles McFarlane put it to me, the students who were wearing field jackets in the nineteen sixties grew up.

他们剪短了头发。

They cut their hair.

他们找到了工作。

They got jobs.

他们变成了传统的中产阶级。

They became conventional bourgeoisie.

但他们保留着感恩而死乐队的唱片和对剩余野战夹克的偏爱。

But they kept their Grateful Dead records and their penchant for surplus field jackets.

伍迪·艾伦在《安妮·霍尔》中穿着军用剩余物资去艺术影院。

You have Woody Allen wearing military surplus to go to the Art House Theater in Annie Hall.

达斯汀·霍夫曼在《克莱默夫妇》中饰演一位经历离婚的父亲，住在纽约上西区，穿着M65野战夹克。

You have Dustin Hoffman in Kramer versus Kramer playing a father going through a divorce, living on the Upper West Side, and he's wearing an m 65 field jacket.

正是在后嬉皮士、后越南战争时代，这些东西开始进入主流。

It's really in, like, post hippie, post Vietnam era when these things start to go mainstream.

我认为关键就在于香蕉共和国这个品牌。

And I think the key to that is the brand Banana Republic.

是的。

Yes.

香蕉共和国

Banana Republic.

我们刚决定要开店时就说，好吧

As soon as we decided to have a store, we said, okay.

那么，我们该怎么称呼这个呢？

Well, what are we gonna call this?

梅尔只是凭直觉就说，哦，这是香蕉共和国，因为那些挣扎中的年轻国家想要出售上一任独裁者留下的军需品。

And Mel just intuitively just said, Oh, it's Banana Republic because it's struggling young countries that want to sell the surplus from the last dictator.

我的意思是，这么说很不酷，非常不政治正确。

I mean, it was very uncool to say this, very unwoke.

你懂吗？

You know?

但在那时，我们玩得不亦乐乎，完全不在乎政治正确。

But at that time, we were having so much fun with it, and we weren't politically correct at all.

我们一个是艺术家，一个是作家。

We were an artist and a writer.

我们不是生意人。

We weren't business people.

但帕特里夏和梅尔面临的一个商业问题与他们的货源有关。

But one of the business problems Patricia and Mel were facing had to do with their supply.

美国在1973年废除了征兵制，欧洲各国军队也在缩减规模。

The US had ended the draft in 1973, and militaries in Europe were downsizing.

军费预算和军队规模缩小意味着可流通的军需剩余物资越来越少。

Smaller military budgets and armies meant less and less army surplus to go around.

最终，帕特里夏和梅尔决定将生意卖给Gap公司，因为Gap承诺帮助香蕉共和国生产他们成功款式的仿制版。

So eventually, Patricia and Mel decided to sell their business to The Gap because The Gap offered to help Banana Republic manufacture their own version of the styles that had made them a success.

在接下来的十年里，Gap公司助推香蕉共和国飞速发展，这帮助推广了这种雅痞化的、变异的军需剩余物资时尚风格。

Over the next decade, The Gap turbocharged Banana Republic's growth, and that helped popularize this Yuppified kinda mutant version of army surplus fashion.

正如Avery在她的播客中所解释的，这一时刻标志着一个重大转折点。

And as Avery explains in her podcast, this moment marks a major turning point.

这是一个时代的终结，既体现在军队制衣方式的改变上，也体现在这些风格如何传递给我们普通人。

It was the end of an era, both in how the military made its clothing and in how those styles made their way to the rest of us.

军需品来源于庞大臃肿的军队体系，其中充斥着大量廉价过剩物资。

Surplus comes from big, massive militaries with lots of cheap excess sloshing around.

征兵制的终结造就了规模更小、管理更严密的军队，每件物资都能被精确管控。

The end of the draft led to a smaller, tighter army that can be accounted for.

最终几乎不会有多少剩余物资。

There doesn't end up being that much left over.

不像军需供应商会犯那种'哎呀，我们多生产了几十万件夹克'的错误。

It's not like a company supplying to the military is gonna be like, oops.

我们多生产了几十万件夹克。

We made a couple extra 100,000 jackets.

二十一世纪军队的服装由私营企业按订单生产，这些企业有望从中获取巨额利润。

Clothing for the twenty first century army is made to order by private companies who stand to make a lot of money.