敏感肌肤的困境

讨论让世界运转不息。

Discussion keeps the world turning.

这里是圆桌论坛。

This is Roundtable.

在中国，敏感肌肤案例已从个别现象变为普遍常态。

Sensitive skin cases in China have become more of a norm than an outlier.

但蓬勃发展的护理市场是真正的解决方案，还是问题的一部分？

But is the booming care market a real solution or part of the problem?

随着冬季来临，皮肤问题成为许多人的困扰，我们将探究背后的隐形诱因与标签真相，追踪从科学到营销的源头脉络。

As winter has arrived and the issue of skin becomes a pressing one for many, we'll investigate the hidden triggers and the truth behind the labels, tracking the science and the spin all the way to the source.

我们正在北京演播室为您直播。

We're live from our studios in Beijing.

这里是圆桌论坛。

This is Roundtable.

我是史蒂夫。

I'm Steve.

非常感谢你今天和我们在一起。

Thank you so much for being with us today.

本期节目，我和雨顺、菲菲一起主持。

And for the show, I'm with Yushun and Fei Fei.

首先。

First up.

在中国，近三分之二人群的日常现实是与持续发红、瘙痒或敏感的皮肤作斗争。

For nearly two thirds of people in China, the daily reality is a battle against skin that is persistently red, itchy, and or reactive.

这种令人震惊的状况在短短十年内急剧恶化。

A startling condition that has surged dramatically in just one decade.

这场无声的流行病催生了一个拥挤的专业产品市场，所有产品都承诺带来慰藉与缓解。

This silent epidemic has ignited a booming crowded market of specialized products, all promising solace and relief.

然而在精妙的营销和诱人的包装之下，这场危机的真正推手是现代环境与生活方式变化的复杂网络，揭示了我们的皮肤与外界之间深刻的脱节。

Beneath the sophisticated marketing and compelling packaging, however, the real drivers of this crisis are a complex web of modern environmental and lifestyle changes, revealing a profound disconnect between our skin and our world.

然而在这股精华液与面霜的洪流中，市面上的产品实在太多了。

Yet amidst this flood of serums and creams, there are so many out there.

消费者很难判断他们是否找到了真正的解决方案，还是仅仅在巧妙营销的希望迷宫中徘徊。

It's tough to know whether consumers are finding genuine solutions or simply navigating a labyrinth of cleverly marketed hope.

这太让人困惑了。

And it's so confusing.

市面上有太多产品，各自宣称能为肌肤带来这样那样的功效，许多人购买是出于追求奢华。

There are so many products with so many different claims saying they can do this and that for your skin, and many buy it for luxurious reasons.

但对数百万人而言，护肤是一个严肃而充满压力的问题。

But for millions of people out there, skincare is a serious and stressful issue.

你们的皮肤状况如何，怡顺和菲菲，下午好。

Your skin, Yishun and Feifei, good afternoon to you both.

作为人体最大的器官，它帮助身体抵御细菌、感染和伤害，还能调节体温。

It's your largest organ and it helps protect your body from germs and infections and injuries and it helps control your body temperature.

尽管功能强大，但皮肤护理可能很棘手，对许多人来说也是巨大压力和不适的来源。

But for all the great things that it does, it can be tricky to take care of and it can be a source of great great stress and discomfort for many people as well.

所以该由你们来开启话题了。

So you should get us going.

说实话，这些数字有点令人震惊。

The numbers are a little bit, shocking to be honest with you.

是的。

Yes.

说实话，皮肤问题对很多人来说从小就是个挑战，对吧？

To be honest, skin issues has always been a challenge for many people since they are very young, right?

无论是痘痘、瘙痒、色素沉着还是其他问题，都太常见了。

No matter it's about the acne or itching, retinas or other problems, they're just so common.

近期，在11月初于中国西南部重庆举行的皮肤科相关会议上，研究显示中国敏感肌发生率已超过64%。

And recently, at a dermatology related meeting held in Southwest China's Chongqing in early November, research shows that the incidence of sensitive skin in China has reached more than sixty four percent.

这相比2010年仅16%的数据有了显著增长。

That is a significant jump from just sixteen percent in 2010.

这就是我之前说这些数字有点令人震惊的原因。

And that's what I meant when I said the numbers are a bit shocking.

是啊。

Yeah.

基本上，五个人里就有三个是敏感肌。

Like, basically, five people, three of them have sensitive skin.

专家们总结出了三大关键趋势。

So experts have summarized three key trends.

首先，过去十五年间敏感肌发病率几乎翻了三倍；其次，年轻群体受影响比例持续攀升，18至30岁人群占患者总数的近80%；

First, the prevalence of sensitive skin has nearly tripled in the past fifteen years, and second, the condition is increasingly affecting younger people with eighteen to thirty year olds making up nearly eighty percent of those affected.

第三，导致敏感肌的因素更加多样化，环境刺激、不良生活习惯和心理压力是主要诱因。

And third, the factors contributing to sensitive skin are more diverse with, like, environmental irritants, poor lifestyle habits, and psychological stress being the main culprits.

嗯。

Mhmm.

敏感肌这个说法，听起来范围很宽泛啊。

Sensitive skin, I mean, it sounds like a very broad term.

是啊。

Yeah.

具体是怎么定义的呢？

How how is that defined?

我们在谈论敏感肌肤时，具体指的是什么？

What what are we looking at when we're talking about sensitive skin?

实际上，皮肤最外层的角质层就像房子的外墙一样运作。

Actually, the, you know, the outermost layer of your skin called the stratum corneum works like the, you know, outer wall of a house.

嗯。

Mhmm.

它由超过20层扁平、紧密排列的皮肤细胞组成。

So it's it's made of, like, more than 20 layers of flat, tightly packed skin cells.

你可以把这些细胞想象成身体的砖块。

You can think of these cells as the bricks of of your body.

在砖块之间有一层主要由脂肪酸等化学物质构成的脂肪层，就像水泥一样把一切粘合在一起。

And between the bricks, there is a layer of fats, mainly, like, some chemical or or, like, the kind of things that are fatty acids, that that kind of thing, which acts like the cement that holds everything together.

这赋予了皮肤坚固的砖墙般结构。

That and that gives you a skin a a strong and brick wall like structure.

在这堵墙的顶部还有一层由汗液或天然油脂构成的保护膜，就像墙上的油漆涂层，为皮肤提供额外保护。

And then on top of this wall, there's a thin protective film made of sweat or natural oils, and this film is like a coat of paint on the wall, adding an extra layer of your protection.

当我们遇到我刚才提到的这类情况时，这些保护机制可能会减弱，你的皮肤就会失去那种保护，从而产生那种反应。

And then when we, encounter these kind of situation that I just mentioned, these kind of a protection maybe get down and then your skin will lose that kind of protection and you will have that kind of reaction.

可能是任何因素导致的，对吧？

And it could be anything, right?

可能包括天气，是的。

It could include the weather Yeah.

毒素、人们使用的产品，比如面霜、精华液之类的，甚至化妆品。

Toxins, products that people use like creams or serums or things like that or or even makeup.

人们也可能对这些产生不良反应。

People can have a bad reaction to that as well.

甚至用错肥皂也会，是的。

Even the wrong soap can Yeah.

对皮肤一点好处都没有。

Cannot do your skin any favors.

所以，如果你有敏感肌，你会注意到干燥、瘙痒，有时甚至突然出现肤色不均，或者皮肤受到某种刺激后出现这些问题。

So, yeah, if you have sensitive skin, you'll notice things like dryness or itching or skin even skin discoloration sometimes suddenly or after it's irritated in some way, shape or form.

这相当复杂，因为正如雨顺刚才提到的，有些人天生皮肤角质层较薄。

And it's quite complicated because some people are born with these thinner skin level as Yushun just mentioned.

我称之为你身体的防护屏障。

I would call them like the barrier of your body.

有些人天生屏障较薄，对环境变化、饮食、生活方式以及面部使用的所有产品都自然非常敏感。

Some people are just born with thinner barrier and they're naturally very sensitive to different changes in the environment, in their diet, in their lifestyle, all the things all the products they put on their face.

但其他人，我认为，当我们看到中国敏感肌发病率激增时，全球范围内也是如此，我想我们可以说这不只是生物学因素。

But others, I think, when we are seeing this surge in the incident of sensitive skin in China, and also I think globally as well, is I I think we can see say that it's not just biologically.

还有其他因素，比如天气。

There there are other things like weather.

例如，现在北京干燥寒冷的强风可能就是导致你皮肤敏感的原因。

For example, right now in Beijing, we have strong, dry, cold winds, which can be the cause of your sensitivity in your skin.

还有其它因素——我就是活生生的例子——当你用湿巾擦拭面部皮肤时，也可能造成刺激并引发敏感肌问题。

And other things like I'm a living example of that is that when you're using wipes on your face, on your skin, it can also be very irritating and lead to sensitive skin problems.

什么样的湿巾？

Wipes like what?

卸妆湿巾吗？

Makeup removers?

是的。

Yes.

是的。

Yes.

因为我几年前并没有这个问题。

Because I I don't I didn't have this problem a few years back.

但当我作为记者四处出差时，为了方便，我会用卸妆湿巾来卸妆。

But when I was, you know, working as a reporter and traveling around trips, just for the convenience, I would use makeup remover wipes to remove my makeup.

在使用了几次那些湿巾后，我的皮肤现在变得更敏感了。

And after several wipes several times of using those wipes, my skin become more sensitive now.

可能是湿巾里的酒精成分。

Probably the alcohol in the wipes.

可能是吧。

Probably.

那些非常强力的擦拭动作，你知道的，用力摩擦皮肤表面也会非常刺激。

All the very strong, you know, force to wipe your the surface of your skin can be also very irritating.

嗯。

Mhmm.

是的。

Yeah.

嗯，有很多因素都可能引发皮肤刺激。

Well, there are plenty of things that can trigger an irritation.

就连冬天的衣物也是，我不喜欢直接穿毛衣而不在里面穿件长T恤，因为像羊毛这样的材质会摩擦皮肤造成刺激。

Even your clothing in the wintertime, I don't like to wear sweaters without a long t shirt underneath because things like wool can really rub against your skin and irritate it.

这就是我的一个例子。

That's one for me.

但家里其他东西比如清洁用品、化妆品，我们刚才提到过。

But other things in your house like cleaning products, makeup, we mentioned that.

甚至用错了洗衣液也可能成为问题。

Even the wrong laundry detergent can can be a problem.

通常来说，那些含香味或含有刺激性化学成分的产品更容易引发皮肤敏感问题。

And and usually, it's scented products or products that contain some sort of harsh chemicals that will trigger your your skin sensitivities.

我在想，就像你说的，有些人天生皮肤就比较脆弱，对这些东西更敏感。

It feels like, you know, I I was thinking about this, as you said, some people, like, born with these kind of natural skin that can can be, like, weaker to these, things.

但另一个问题是，我觉得人类进化速度跟不上这些产品的商业化进程。

But another thing is that I feel like human evolution hasn't kept up with some of the commercialization of these products.

因为回想过去，我们还没有这些清洁用品的时候——不是洗衣粉，我指的是消毒剂。

Because I I think back then, when we don't have these kind of cleaning stuff, deter not not detergent, I mean, disinfectant.

消毒剂。

Disinfectant.

嗯。

Mhmm.

对吧？

Right?

嗯。

Mhmm.

你 你

You you

有时候可能会和洗衣液一起使用。

use them with your detergent maybe sometimes.

回想起来，我觉得在我家里，我们并不那么频繁使用它。

Back then, I think in my family, we don't, like, very, very commonly use it.

而且那时候，我的皮肤问题也没那么多。

And and back then, I don't have that much skin issue.

但当我开始定期大量使用这些东西后，无论是洗衣用品还是家居清洁产品，我开始出现这些问题，不得不对这些产品格外注意。

But after I regularly starting to use a lot of these, no no matter it's the laundry stuff or household cleaning products, I started to have these thing and I I have to pay a lot of attention to these products.

我正想说，最大的挑战之一就是经常会有东西刺激你的皮肤，而你却不知道具体是什么。如果你去看医生，医生会问你：最近家里有没有什么变化？

I was just about to say that's one of the big challenges is that oftentimes something will trigger your skin and you don't know exactly what it is, and if you go to the doctor, the doctor will ask you, have you made any changes in your house recently?

有没有开始用不同的洗涤剂？

Have you started using a different detergent?

有没有开始用不同的乳霜或润肤露？

Have you started using different creams or lotions?

通过这类方法来试图找出真正的罪魁祸首，但往往很难做到。

Things like that to try and find out exactly what the culprit is, but oftentimes that that's hard to do.

不过话说回来，他们已经能够确定一些导致问题变得更严重的原因。

But that being said though, they have been able to identify some of the reasons that this has become more serious.

那么现在有哪些主要原因呢？

So what are some of the causes now?

为什么我们看到数据从近16%骤增至远超60%？

Why have why have we seen such a significant jump in the numbers from nearly sixteen percent to well over sixty percent?

嗯，我认为化学品过度使用是原因之一，这让我想起之前看过一个关于过敏症的演讲。那位医生说全球范围内过敏病例确实也在增加。

Well, think overuse of chemicals is one of the reasons that sort of reminds me when I watched the sort of presentation about allergies And the doctor said we they are also witnessing an uptick in allergies globally as well.

其中一个原因是人类首次大规模过敏爆发的时间，恰好与洗涤剂进入市场的时间吻合。

And one of the reasons is the first uptick of really mass allergy outbreak among humanity is about the same time around detergent enter the market.

哦。

Oh.

所以他们提出，日常生活中化学制品的使用可能也是导致人体系统敏感化的因素之一。

So he they were proposing that maybe the use of chemicals in your daily life is also part of the sensitivity in your whole body system.

嗯。

Mhmm.

所以就像你提到的，记得早期护肤时，我们只用洁面乳和乳液。

And that's why, as you mentioned, with remember in the early days of skincare, we only use, like, cleanser and then lotion.

就这样。

That's it.

后来逐渐有了化妆水、精华、眼霜、面霜、乳液加面霜，还要用各种精油。

And later we have like some sort of water and then serum and then eye cream and then cream and then lotion plus cream and then you also use some other oil.

你知道，这流程变得非常复杂。

You know, it's a very complicated process.

这可能就是原因之一。

That can be one of the reasons.

这样的话，我们或许要归咎于广告和社交媒体，因为它们让我们接触到更多元化的审美标准。

So then in that case, we'd have to blame maybe advertising, social media because we are exposed to a different idea of beauty or perhaps more ideas about beauty.

过去我们无时无刻不被这些信息轰炸。

We're kind of bombarded with them all the time in the past.

也许你以前需要拿起杂志翻页才能看到那些美容广告，或者切换电视频道。

Maybe you'd have to pick up a magazine and flip through the pages to see those beauty advertisements or flip through the channels on your television.

而现在，只需打开手机，进入任何社交媒体应用，你就能感受到无处不在的压力。

Now, simply turn on your phone, go to any social media app, and you'll see lots of pressure there.

有时候我觉得这些原因之间都是相互关联或相互影响的。

Sometimes a lot of these causes are kind of related or connected, I would say.

社交媒体和广告宣传就是其中一方面。

One social media and and advertisement is one thing.

另一个因素是，我们所处的环境可能也在变化，比如某些地区冬季湿度的急剧下降，或者如果我们使用供暖系统，室内温度的上升。

Another thing is that the environment that we're living in may be also changing, like the sharp drop in humidity when it's when winter in some area or the rising indoor temperature if we were using heating systems.

对吧？

Right?

还有室内外温差大的情况，当你进出不同区域或房间时。

And also large temperature differences in indoor and outdoor when you're going into different areas or, like, rooms.

因此，当我们生活在这样的环境中，人们就会考虑，或许我需要用更多产品来保护我的皮肤。嗯。

So and then, when we are living in this kind of environment, people would think about, okay, I maybe need more products on my face to protect my skin Mhmm.

这样我们就不会出现那些过敏反应了。

So that we I won't have that kind of these allergies.

是啊。

Yeah.

这真是讽刺，不是吗？

And and that's the irony, isn't it?

我们以为对皮肤做得越多，可能反而伤害越大。

Is that we think the more and more we try to do for our skin, the more and more we might be hurting it.

我是说，这可是个大生意。

I mean, it's big business.

中国的医美行业，我们在《圆桌派》节目里讨论过的第八届中国国际进口博览会上就提到过这个。

China's medical aesthetic industry, they talked about this at the eighth China International Import Expo, the CIIE, which we talked about here on Roundtable.

根据那份报告，中国医美市场规模约42亿美元（约合300亿元人民币），这还是2023年的数据，预计至少到2030年都将继续增长。

According to that report, the market for China's medical aesthetics industry is about 42,000,000,000, that's about 300,000,000,000 yuan, and that was back in 2023, and they're expecting it to grow up until, well, at least 2030.

这是当时的预测数据。

That was the projection there.

当然，不仅仅是中国如此。

But, of course, it's not just China.

美国也是这样。

It's America.

韩国也不例外。

It's, you know, Korea too.

韩国保健福祉部报告称，2024年有近120万外国人赴韩就医。

The South Korean Ministry of Health and Welfare, they reported that in 2024, nearly 1,200,000 foreigners visited the country for medical treatments.

医疗旅游在韩国非常盛行。

Medical tourism is big in South Korea.

是的。

Yeah.

这类新闻经常出现。

That's in the news quite a bit.

但这些治疗可能正在伤害你的皮肤，这方面有不少个人经历的故事。

But these treatments might be hurting your skin, and there are personal stories about this.

是的。

Yes.

例如，有个叫大宝的女性。

For example, there is a woman named Dabao.

她内心充满不安全感，后来在韩国找到一家诊所，试图去除她的痘疤。

She felt this deep sense of insecurity, and then she found one of those clinics in South Korea and then trying to get rid of her acne scars.

但那次治疗后，她开始出现皮肤敏感症状。

But from that treatment, she started to develop these sensitive skin syndromes.

而且，尤其是当她回到中国去医院检查时，被诊断出皮肤屏障受损。

And, you know, she she after especially when she came back to China and went to a hospital for a checkup, she was diagnosed with damaged skin barrier.

嗯。

Yeah.

再次回到那个观点：我们越想帮忙，虽然很多时候确实有效，但有时可能弊大于利。

Again, back to the point of the more we try to help sometimes and oftentimes it it will help, but sometimes you can be doing more harm than good.

但这不仅仅是治疗本身的问题，更是关于当今整体生活方式的问题。

But it's not just about that, it's about lifestyles in general now.

他们可能变得比以前稍微不健康了一些

They've become perhaps a little bit more unhealthy

是的。

Yeah.

比过去更甚。

Than they were in the past.

另一个例子是，当一位名叫琪琪的女性刚开始在新公司工作时，这家公司可能要求她们处理许多重大项目，这意味着她们需要加班或工作很长时间，而项目结束后工作强度并未减轻。

Another example is when a woman named Chi Chi first started working in a new company and this company may be asking them to handle a lot of major projects which means they need to work overtime or work very, very long hours, and then after the project ended, they the work intensity didn't ease.

在这种情境下，她往往会吃更多油腻食物或所谓的‘安慰餐’来让自己感觉好些。

And and in this kind of scenario, they she tends to eat more greasy food or, like, cheating meals that can make see make make her feel better.

这对她的皮肤产生了影响，这种压力层、不良习惯和饮食导致了她们的敏感睡眠问题。

So which has that effect on her skin and these kind of layer of stress and poor habits and food caused their their sensitive sleep.

是啊。

Yeah.

这就像一张蜘蛛网，不是吗？

It it's like a spider web then, isn't it?

所有事物都相互关联着。

Where everything is connected to something else.

在我们忙碌的现代工作生活方式中，每天在办公室待很长时间，这让我们在食物选择上可能变得有点懒散，因为漫长的工作日后我们太疲惫了，这对皮肤也不好。

So in our busy modern day work lifestyles where we are at the office for many hours of the day, It leads us to be a little bit, lazy maybe when it comes to our food choices because we're so exhausted at the end of that long working day, and that can be bad for your skin as well.

食物会对皮肤产生什么样的影响？

What kind of impact can food have on your skin?

关于这方面的新闻有很多。

There there's lots of news about that.

是的。

Yeah.

就像Yufeng说的，油腻食物是其中之一，还有含糖食品。

As Yufeng said, greasy food is one of that, and also sugary stuff.

嗯。

Mhmm.

比如，如今我们通过饮食摄入了大量糖分，无论是吃的食物还是喝的饮料。

Like, we intake a lot of sugar these days through through, you know, the food we eat and also the drinks we have.

此外，由云南省一组学者领导的研究还发现，辛辣食物和酒精也可能是导致皮肤敏感的因素。

And also, a study led by a group of scholars from Yunnan province, they also found that spicy food and alcohol can also be a contributing factor to your sensitive skin.

他们表示，研究揭示亚洲血统的人群在接触辛辣饮食时，对皮肤敏感的易感性会增加。

So they they said that studies have revealed that individuals of Asian descent exhibit increased susceptibility to sensitive skin when exposed to a spicy diet.

因此，注意你放入口中的食物也非常重要。

So it's also very important to be mindful of what putting you into your mouth.

还有，睡眠模式也是讨论敏感皮肤激增时的重要因素——由于工作或学习压力，人们有时会熬夜到很晚，这也是一个诱因。

And also, think sleep patterns are also very a big factor when we are talking about this surge in sensitive skin is that because of the stress in workplace or in your studies, sometimes people would sleep very late into the night and that can also be a contributor.

另外，考虑到人们因压力和不良睡眠模式摄入的咖啡因或酒精。

And also, know, thinking about the caffeine people taking or alcohol people taking because of the stress and because of the poor sleep patterns.

是的。

Yeah.

所有这些因素。

So all of that.

压力也是，对吧？

Stress too, right?

是的。

Yeah.

没错。

Yeah.

当你感到压力时，身体会释放皮质醇，这种激素会削弱皮肤屏障并降低其保湿能力。

When you are stressed, your body releases cortisol, a hormone that weakens the skin barrier and reduces its ability to hold moisture.

首先，这会导致你的皮肤变得干燥、易受刺激，比平时更敏感；其次，长期承受巨大压力的人常会出现突发性皮肤炎症、视网膜问题甚至压力性荨麻疹。

And and this can make your skin, first of all, dry, irritated, and more sensitive than usual, and then, people under heavy stress often experience sudden flare ups or retinas or even stress related hives.

嗯。

Mhmm.

就像我刚才说的，这些都是相互关联的。

And that is when, I think, as as I said that's all connected.

当你睡眠不足或压力过大时，你的免疫系统也会受到影响，继而可能引发一系列连锁反应。

When you're having a bad sleep or high stress, your like immune system will also get affected and then everything may be affected as

但这并不是常识，对吧？

But it's not common knowledge though, isn't it?

我不知道皮质醇这种压力激素会导致皮肤干燥。

I didn't know that cortisol, that stress hormone dries out your skin.

我此刻才第一次听说这件事。

I had no idea about that this very moment.

所以我认为这也是问题的一部分，我们在新闻和节目上看到很多健康建议，总是被告知要做这个、不要做那个来保持健康。

So I think that's part of the problem as well, is that, you know, we get lots of health tips on the news and on shows, and it's always being told to us, do this, don't do that to take care of your health.

但我觉得皮肤问题经常被忽视，人们并不真正知道正确的护理方法。

But skin is often ignored, I feel, and people don't really know the right way to take care of it.

护肤市场确实是个令人困惑的领域。

And it is a confusing place to live, the skin care market.

这是个非常庞大的市场，数据可以证明这一点。

It's a big, big, big market out there, and the numbers prove it.

是的。

Yes.

特别是近年来，我认为在中国，如果我们讨论敏感肌护肤行业，2020至2022年间线上市场的复合年增长率达到了约27%，增长非常显著。

Especially in recent years, I think here in China, if we are talking about sensitive skin skin care industry, China has experienced significant growth with a compound annual growth rate of about 27% in the online market from 2020 to 2022.

而且，总体而言，中国的化妆品市场也正经历繁荣，基本上已成为全球顶级市场之一。

And, also, overall, China's cosmetics cosmetics market is also experiencing booms, and it's basically one of the top players around the world around the world.

今年，该国美容与个人护理行业的收入预计将达到780亿美元。

The country's beauty and personal care sector is projected to reach 78,000,000,000 US dollars in revenue this year.

这意味着品牌间的激烈竞争。

And that means lots of brand competition.

国产品牌的市场份额增长迅速。

Domestic brands have seen rapid growth in market share.

仅在2019年，就有两个国产品牌在敏感肌肤护理市场份额中占据前两名。

In 2019 alone, two domestic brands led to, the sensitive skin care market in terms of market share and taking first and second place.

到2022年，国产皮肤学级护肤品牌的市场份额已增长至近50%，几乎与外资品牌持平。

And then by 2022, the market share of domestic dermatological grade skin care brands grew to almost 50%, almost on par with foreign brands.

例如薇诺娜品牌，凭借其特护霜推动母公司成为医美护肤领域的龙头企业。

And one example is a brand called Winona, maybe with its special KAO cream has propelled its parent company to be become the leading medical skincare stock.

所以产品并不匮乏。

So it's not for a lack of products.

对吧？

Right?

对于敏感肌肤的人群来说，市面上有太多选择了。

For people who who have sensitive skin, there are so many choices out there.

这听起来是件好事，但可能既是问题的一部分，也是一种选择困境。

And and that sounds like a wonderful thing, but it might also be part of the problem as well as a choice.

你根本不知道该选什么。

You don't really know what to choose.

部分产品的价格差异也非常大。

There's such a price variation in terms of some of the products as well.

我认为国内市场最近有点抱怨的是成本在上升。

And I think that's been a little bit complained about recently in the domestic market is that the cost is going up.

确实如此。

Exactly.

例如，有个早期用户使用过一款针对敏感肌肤的国产护肤品牌叫Jojo。

And in the for example, there is an early user of domestic skincare brand for sensitive skin called Jojo.

她回忆说，一瓶50毫升的防晒霜大约8元。

She recalled that a 50 ml bottle of sunscreen was about 8 yuan.

那是

That was

大概一美元。

It's about a dollar.

是的。

Yeah.

2017年时，50毫升的喷雾只要4美元左右。

And a 50 mil spray was only about $4 in 2017.

这意味着你一个月护肤的开销都很低，非常经济实惠。

That that means that could you could take care of your skin for a whole month, and that's very affordable.

但每年这些国产品牌都会推出新产品，尤其是上半年。

But every year, these domestic brands launch a new wave of products, especially in the first half of the year.

如果你对比这些新品，大部分只是旧产品的升级版，价格却在上涨。

And if you compare these new releases, most of them are just upgraded version of their old products, and their price are going up.

例如，1.0版本50克装定价为12美元。

For example, the the for example, the point one point o version was priced at 12 US dollars for 50 gram.

但当升级到2.0版本时，同等容量的产品价格会涨到38美元左右，接近40美元。

But when it was upgraded to two point o version, the price will be grown to 38 or close to 40 US dollars for the same amount of product.

所以这正是人们抱怨的原因。

So therefore, that's what people are complaining about.

大约八年前，他们还能以相当实惠的价格买到能用一个月的小瓶装。

About eight years ago or so, they could get a small bottle that would last a month for a pretty good price.

但现在，你可能看到包装变小了，价格上涨了，而且需要比过去更频繁地购买。

But now, you're seeing perhaps smaller packages, you're seeing increased prices, and you need to buy more often than you did before.

服务方面呢？

What about the service?

人们也在讨论服务质量吗？

Are are people talking about the service as well?

是的。

Yeah.

问题是很多这类护肤品，你必须根据自己的肤质来使用。

The thing is that a lot of these skincare products, you need to use them you need to use them according to your own skin type.

对吧？

Right?

我们有着不同的肤质，确实如此。

You we have different skin types Sure.

干性、油性或混合性。

Dry, oily, or mixed ones.

这并不能保证对别人有效的产品就一定会对你有用。

That doesn't, like, assure or guarantee that that specific skin product that is working for somebody is working for you.

嗯。

Mhmm.

这就是为什么许多购买这些护肤品的人会说，好吧，它根本不起作用，而我却为此花了很多钱。

And that is why a lot of people buying these skin products is saying, okay, it's it's just not working and I'm paying a lot of money for that.

但关键在于，这些中国品牌的核心产品成分本应保密，却公开列在财务报告中，国内品牌甚至加入直播平台，一步步教消费者如何应对皮肤敏感和皱纹问题。

But the thing is that some of these core product ingredients of these Chinese brands, which should be confidential, are openly listed in financial reports and domestic brands have even joined live streaming platforms, teaching consumers how to tackle skin sensitive sensitivities and wrinkles step by step.

是啊。

Yeah.

说是教学，实则更让人困惑，因为深入研究后你会发现，即便在同一个修复类别下，就有近十种不同选择，比如强化肌肤屏障、快速止痒、即时缓解泛红或长效舒缓敏感等等——而这还仅仅是修复类别下的产品。

Teaching or further confusing because when you dive into it, you'll find that even within one category, for example, a repair category, there are almost a dozen options under that one category, like strengthening the skin barrier or quickly relieve itching or things like instant redness relief or long lasting sensitivity reduction, and that's just under the relief category or repair category.

所以这确实是个问题，但我不确定我们该责怪卖家。

So this is a bit of a problem, and I'm not sure that we can blame the sellers here.

你看直播的时候，他们推广的正是我们刚讨论的这些术语。

You know, you watch a livestream or something like that, then they'll be promoting these types of terms that we just talked about.

但从消费者角度来说，重申一下——我们确实对皮肤知识和完美护理方法了解有限。

But from a consumer's point of view, again, going back to the point that we're not I think it's safe to say we're not that well educated on our skin and how to take care of our skin perfectly.

作为消费者，看到这类直播或走进商店听到这些术语时，真的很难判断什么最适合自己，最终可能导致你白白花钱——只有把产品买回家试用后才知道是否合适。

So as a consumer, when you watch a livestream like that or you walk into a shop and you hear all those terms, it's really, really confusing to know what's best for you, and it could end up in you wasting your money because you just don't know until you get the package home and you open it up and you put it on your skin to find out whether it's good or not.

再说回卖家，我认为不该责怪他们，就像你提到的玉信，每个人的皮肤都不同。

And again, back to the the sellers, I don't think we can really blame them because Yushin, as you mentioned, everybody has different skin.

这并不是放之四海皆准的解决方案。

This isn't a one size fits all solution.

你真的需要做些研究，找出最适合自己的方案。

You really have to do some research and find out what's best for you.

是的。

Yes.

确实如此。

Exactly.

然后，因为雨顺和我刚才在讨论，你知道的，就是人对不同环境的反应差异。

And then, because Yushun and I was we're talking about, you know, your reaction to different environments.

对。

Yeah.

对我们这些在不同气候下出生的人来说，即使面对北京同样的天气，我们的反应也不尽相同。

And for us that were born in different weathers, we have different reactions to the same weather here in Beijing.

嗯。

Mhmm.

所以这让问题变得更加复杂了。

So that also complicates the problem.

要知道，如果我原本来自一个非常干燥、寒冷的地方，来到像北京这样更温暖潮湿的地方，反应会与平常不同。

You know, if I'm from originally from a very dry place, dry and cold place, coming to a warmer and more humid place like Beijing would have a different reaction than usual.

你管北京叫更潮湿的地方？

You call Beijing a more humid place?

如果北京都算潮湿，那你之前是在哪里？

Where were you before if Beijing is humid?

在蒙古，那里是...

In Mongolia, which is Okay.

好吧。

Okay.

沙漠中央。

In the middle of the desert.

所以这也让问题变得更复杂。

So that also complicates the problem.

而且我认为卖家不可能真的为每位消费者提供一对一的解决方案。

And I don't think the seller can really, you know, have this one to one solutions for every one of their consumers.

当我尝试研究敏感肌肤这个话题时，还发现护肤领域在主流健康研究中并不占据重要位置。

And when I was trying to research on this sensitive skin topic, I also found that when it comes to skincare, it's also not of a mainstream research health issue Mhmm.

相比而言，比如免疫系统或其他健康问题更受关注。

Compared to, for example, your immune system or other problems you may have.

但皮肤确实是反映许多健康问题的首要表层指标。

But skin is also one of the big sort of the surface of a lot of your health problems.

所以我们首先需要了解自己的皮肤，学习相关知识，接受教育。

So we need to get to know your skin first of all and learn about it, get educated.

那我们具体该怎么做呢？

Well, how do we do that then?

如果想学习正确护肤的方法，有哪些实用建议？

What are some good tips if we want to learn about the proper ways to do the right things for our skin?

就像我们刚才说的对吧？

Exactly what we said, right?

首先你需要判断自己属于哪种肤质，或者你使用产品的方式、清洁方法都非常关键——特别是当你有特殊肤质时。

First of all, you need to identify or judge which kind of skin type you are having or, like, the way that you use your products or cleanse your, skin is sometimes very, very important, when you have different types of, like, skin type.

用温和的洁面产品洗脸，去除污垢、油脂或化妆品残留，然后轻轻用毛巾拍干脸部，等待约三十分钟让皮肤恢复自然状态，之后观察皮肤状况，或许就能判断出它是变得油腻、保持正常、开始干燥还是属于混合型。

So wash your face with a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, oil, or makeup, and then, pat your face dry with a towel and leave it for about thirty minutes to let your skin return to its natural state and then observe your skin and then maybe you can tell that if if it is getting oily or just normal or it is getting dry or it's mixed.

我认为另一个好建议是，在尝试新产品时要做局部测试。

I think a good tip too is to do a patch test if you're trying out a new product.

我平时不化妆，但我想这对化妆的人也是适用的。

I I don't wear makeup on my face, but I assume this is Yeah.

这也是个很好的建议。

Good advice for that too.

对吧？

Right?

你只需要在皮肤上找一小块区域测试，看看是否会有任何不良反应

You have to just test a little tiny space of your skin, area of your skin to see if there's going to be any reaction or

没有。

not.

是的。

Yeah.

可以先在下颌线区域进行测试。

Test it on your sort of on the lines of your jaw to have it go first.

哦，他们推荐在那里测试吗？

Oh, is that where they recommend doing it?

是的。

Yeah.

这里。

Here.

无论是化妆品还是护肤品，这里都是测试的理想位置。

Either makeup or skincare would be the place to have a test.

但我觉得我们还需要注意，比如你的生活方式、饮食习惯、睡眠、摄入物以及运动。

But also I think we also need to be mindful about, for example, your lifestyle, the things you eat, your sleep, what's your intake, and also exercises.

很多研究表明运动也能帮助改善许多皮肤问题。

A lot of studies are suggesting that exercises can also help with a lot of your skin problems as well.

没错。

Yeah.

如果你确实有敏感肌，我想你在家里引入新产品时真的需要特别注意。

And if you do have sensitive skin, I guess you have to really pay attention if you are introducing new products into your home.

如果你尝试新洗衣液，千万要留心，或者有人带新洗衣液进你家时要注意，还有新洗洁精，任何可能接触皮肤的东西都要留意。

If you try a new detergent, pay pay pay attention to that, or if someone brings a new detergent into your house, pay attention to that, or new dish soap, or anything that might come in contact with your skin.

如果你注意到变化，那可能也会对你有帮助。

And if you notice a change, then that might help you out as well.

是啊。

Yeah.

这很重要。

It's it's important.

这是国内数百万民众面临的重要问题。

It's an important issue for millions and millions of people here in the country.

再说一遍，随着冬季来临，特别是在北京，现在正是要格外注意护肤的时候。

And again, as we get into winter, particularly here in Beijing, it is time to really pay attention to taking care of our skin.

我搬到北京了。

I moved to Beijing.

这是我在北京度过的第二个冬天。

This is my second winter in Beijing.

去年是我第一次在这里过冬。

Last year was my first.

上个冬天，因为空气非常干燥，我以为我的手会像小葡萄或葡萄干一样皱缩起来，但这次我做好了准备，备好了面霜、润肤露和手套。是的，冬天也要保护好皮肤。

And last winter, I thought my hands were going to shrivel up like small grapes or raisins because of the the air is quite dry in the wintertime, but this time around I've prepared myself, I've got my creams and my lotions and my gloves and yes, cover up your skin in the wintertime too.

这是个非常基本的建议。

That's a very basic tip.

希望这些信息今天能对你有所帮助。

Hopefully, some of that information will help you out today.