拉布布抹茶迪拜巧克力

今日解说，我是肖恩·拉姆斯弗姆。关于我的一点是我不喝咖啡，但偶尔能接受抹茶。最近，我在纽约Soho区一家非常可爱、直接从东京搬来的迷你抹茶店。当然，那里排着队。我一个个看着前面几乎每个人都掏出手机，像拍迷你纪录片一样记录他们买冰抹茶拿铁的过程。

Today Explained, Sean Ramsverm. A thing about me is I don't drink coffee, but I can handle a matcha every now and then. Recently, I found myself in New York City at a very cute, straight out of Tokyo, tiny little matcha shop in Soho. And there was a line, of course. And one by one, I watched as almost every person ahead of me broke out their telephones and filmed like a mini documentary while getting their iced matcha lattes.

他们捕捉各种角度，自拍、常规镜头、前置摄像头、比着和平手势，有的和伴侣合影，有的和闺蜜团。我当时就想，你们在干嘛？这只是一杯饮料啊。后来我读到全球抹茶短缺的消息，就更困惑了：到底怎么回事？原来是因为迪拜的La Boo Boo抹茶巧克力风靡全球。

They were getting all the angles, selfies, regular camera, front facing camera, peace signs, one with boo, one with the squad. And I was like, what is going on you guys? It's a drink. And then I read that there was a worldwide matcha shortage, and then I was really like, what is going on? And it turns out La Boo Boo Matcha Dubai chocolate was going on.

错过这波热潮的朋友别担心，我们今天的节目会详细解析。

And for anyone who missed it, we're gonna explain on the show today.

大家好，我是塔菲，正在主持《The Cut》的新播客《塔菲闲谈》。把我当作你的职场闺蜜，带你深入最劲爆的流行文化话题，解读名人八卦，畅聊现代生活。每周三在YouTube或你喜欢的播客平台更新。让我们一起愉快地逃避正经工作吧。

Hey. I'm Tuffy, and I'm hosting a new podcast from the Cut called Tuffy Talks. Think of me as your work bestie who's here to give you all the juiciest pop culture deep dives, read celebrity tea leaves, and yap about modern life. New episodes drop every Wednesday on YouTube or in your favorite podcast app. It's going to be so fun avoiding actual work together.

今天的节目内容源自《卫报》。如果你常听我们节目，我想你肯定重视新闻中的独立声音和多元视角。你需要真实事件的真报道，不愿怀疑接收的信息是否被无形之手扭曲。《卫报》自称也坚守独立立场，致力于呈现完整图景，其报道范围远超常规新闻。

Of the show today comes from The Guardian. If you listen to our show, my guess is that you value independent voices and perspectives on the news. You want real reporting on real stories, and you don't wanna wonder if the news you're getting is being skewed by an unseen hand. The Guardian says they're fiercely independent too. They aspire to report the whole picture and their coverage goes beyond the news.

他们在文化、健康、体育等领域提供新颖视角。想获取不受妥协、没有付费墙的美国和全球新闻，现在就访问theguardian.com阅读、观看和收听吧。

They have new perspectives on culture, wellness, sports, and more. For US and World News Without Compromise or a paywall, read, watch, and listen today at theguardian.com.

我们这儿有杯抹茶拿铁要送给——当当——今日解说。

We've got a matcha latte up here for ta da expan.

好的。我们想弄清楚抹茶是怎么回事，为什么今年夏天它似乎无处不在，为什么人们对他们的饮品表现得如此文艺（像肯·伯恩斯纪录片那样），为什么会出现短缺？真的有短缺吗？我们向南加州大学的Rebecca Corbett博士请教了内情。她专攻日本研究。

Alright. So we wanted to find out what's going on with matcha, why it was seemingly everywhere this summer, why people were acting all Ken Burnsy about their beverages, why is there a shortage? Is there a shortage? We asked doctor Rebecca Corbett from the University of Southern California for the tea. She specializes in Japanese studies.

是的。目前抹茶确实存在短缺。和任何农作物一样，生产周期是循环的。对吧？就像它随季节变化。

Yes. There is a shortage of matcha right now. Like with any crop, the production cycle, it's it's cyclical. Right? Like, it goes with the seasons.

所以去年十月底到十一月初时，旧茶库存开始耗尽，新茶即将上市。我记得当时东京的茶叶店（我所在的地方）开始贴出告示，说抹茶短缺。每位顾客每天只能购买一罐之类的，还警告说由于短缺价格会上涨。

And so in late October and early November is when last year's crop is starting to run out and the new crop is about to hit the market. And I remember tea shops in Tokyo where I was based started putting signs up saying, you know, there's a matcha shortage. Each customer can only buy one can per day and things like that, and also warning that there would be price increases coming because of the shortage.

抹茶狂热正席卷全球。

Matcha mania is sweeping the world.

如今似乎每个人都想喝一杯抹茶，但供应量却远远跟不上需求。

Seems like everyone these days wants a cup of matcha, and there's so little supply to go around something.

日本财务省数据显示，去年美国占该国绿茶粉出口量的近80%。80%。

The Japan Ministry of Finance says The US made up nearly 80% of the country's powdered green tea exports last year. 80.

抹茶是粉末状绿茶。关键要知道所有茶叶都来自同一种植物。像抹茶这样的绿茶，茶叶会经过加热以防止氧化——这就是它与氧化过的红茶的区别。另一个重点是，抹茶采用的是茶树最鲜嫩的初生新叶，每年春天手工采摘用于生产。

Matcha is powdered green tea. What's important to know is that all tea comes from the same plant. For green teas like matcha, the leaves are heated to prevent oxidation. That's what makes it different from black tea that is oxidized. Another important thing for matcha is that it's the freshest youngest leaves of the plant that are picked to go into matcha production, and they're picked by hand every year in spring.

然后它们被蒸制、压碎并干燥。这些叶子被称为碾茶，之后研磨成抹茶。研磨过程也相当昂贵且耗时。因此需要使用巨大的石磨设备，单台设备成本可能高达数万美元。此外我们还需考虑到，日本可用于种植茶叶的耕地面积本身也十分有限。

And then they're steamed, and they're crushed and dried. And those leaves are called tensha, and then they're ground to become matcha. The grinding process is also quite expensive and slow. So there's these huge stone grinders that are used, and they can cost like, one piece of that equipment costs, like, tens of thousands of dollars. And then we also have to consider that the amount of arable land available in Japan for growing tea is limited as well.

所以生产者很难轻易扩大规模，因为全球需求出现了前所未有的激增。

So it's not super easy for producers to just scale up because there's been this unprecedented spike in global demand.

人类饮用抹茶的历史有多久？最初是哪些人在饮用？

How long have humans been drinking matcha, and which humans?

肯定超过一千年了。抹茶是日语术语，但若论粉末茶，最早起源于中国。几百年后由佛教僧侣传入日本，大约是在13世纪中叶的12月前后。而中国大约在一百多年后的14世纪末，粉末茶的饮用就逐渐式微了。此后约七百年间，只有日本持续生产和饮用抹茶。

Certainly over a thousand years. Matcha is the Japanese term, but if we think of powdered tea, it was originally being drunk in China. It then came to Japan a few hundred years later in the hands of Buddhist monks. So this was in around December, so mid thirteenth century that matcha comes to Japan from China. And then matcha drinking or powdered tea drinking really falls out of popularity and use in China about a hundred years later or late fourteenth century, and it's only then for the next, you know, seven hundred years or so being produced and drunk in Japan.

如今我们正经历全球抹茶热潮，包括中国在内的其他国家生产商也开始重新进入市场。

And now we're in this global matcha boom where producers in other countries, including China, are starting to reenter the market.

抹茶真正传入西方是什么时候？感觉不是今年夏天才出现的吧？应该更早些？

When did matcha really arrive in the West? It doesn't feel like it was actually this summer. It was earlier than that, wasn't it?

没错，不是今年夏天。我认为今年夏天只是热度爆发期，粗略推算抹茶风潮大约始于2021年。但其实可以追溯更早——我在2015年的《今日秀》节目中就见过相关报道片段。

Yeah. It wasn't this summer. I think it's just, like, exploited this summer and the I would say as a rough date, the matcha boom started around 2021, but we can actually look back earlier than that. I have seen clips from the Today show in 2015.

那么你准备好尝试一下了吗？

So are you ready to give it a try?

你需要消耗多少？

How much do you have to consume?

他们做了一个小报道，说抹茶是最新的超级食品趋势，还给主持人泡了一杯。艾尔·罗克喝抹茶时的表情，嗯...他显然不是粉丝。

They did a little story on, like, matcha is the newest superfood trend, and they made some for the host to drink. And Al Roker's face when he drank the matcha was, like yeah. He's not he was not a fan.

我爱死它了。

I love it.

你们啊

You guys

都觉得这样更好。

all think it's better.

这就像，干嘛不直接给我一把草吃？反正很健康。事情是这样的。

It's like, why don't you hand me a a handful of grass to eat? It's healthy. So here's the thing.

嗯，也许吧

Well, maybe

你的情况是开头有点糟然后越来越差。所以你的

yours is a little starts bad and it gets worse. So then yours

太粗鲁了，阿尔。是啊。

Rude, Al. Yeah.

问题是这样的。什么

Here's the thing. What

为什么西方花了这么久才接受抹茶？

took the West so long to catch up on matcha?

西方人确实花了相当长时间才真正喜欢上抹茶，可能是因为现在人们经常把它和糖、牛奶以及其他调味品混合饮用。

It has taken a while for Westerners to decide that they actually really like matcha, probably because these days people are mixing it a lot with sugar and milk and other flavorings.

我以前很讨厌抹茶，直到我学会了如何让它变得好喝。这款五分钟就能做好的草莓抹茶拿铁是我今年夏天的最爱饮品。

I used to hate matcha until I figured out how to make it taste good. This easy five minutes strawberry matcha latte is my favorite drink of the summer.

海盐蜂蜜冷泡冰抹茶拿铁。

Salted honey cold foam iced matcha latte.

南瓜香料冰抹茶拿铁。芒果与紫丁香糖浆。杏仁奶抹茶拿铁配夏威夷果菠萝冷泡。

Pumpkin spice iced matcha latte. Mango and lilacoy syrup. Almond milk matcha latte with a macadamia nut pineapple cold foam.

不过我想说的是，在日本茶道'茶の湯'中——这是一整套围绕准备和饮用抹茶的文化实践与美学仪式——我们不会添加任何其他配料。这种形式自二战后，即上世纪五十年代以来在全球范围内非常流行。但这属于非常小众的特定实践。全球有数千名日本和非日本人在修习茶道，但它与当前全球抹茶热潮以及自2021年左右出现的需求激增现象是完全分离的。

I would say though that in Chanayu, a Japanese tea ceremony, which is an entire cultural practice and aesthetic practice based around preparing and drinking matcha, and we don't add anything to it, that has been very popular globally since the post World War two period, so since the nineteen fifties. But that's a very, like, niche specific practice. You know, there's some thousands of non Japanese and Japanese people around the world who practice that, but it's completely separate to the global matcha boom and this, you know, huge rise in demand and that we've seen since about 2021.

当然，不可能是仅仅因为人们发现可以用糖或蜂蜜来调味抹茶，就导致了当下这股抹茶狂热。是否还有其他因素在起作用？

Surely, it can't just be the fact that people discovered that you can sweeten matcha with sugar or honey that's led to the matcha craze of our particular moment. Was there something else going on?

某种程度上这也让我们这些业内研究者感到意外。我无法给出单一明确的答案，我认为存在多重原因的交汇。一方面是'酷日本'形象的影响，另一方面在疫情后时期，日元疲软推动了赴日旅游热潮，这可能也有所关联。

It's kind of caught those of us who work in the field a little bit by surprise as well. So I can't give you one clear answer. I think there's a confluence of reasons. I think it is the kind of cool Japan image. The post pandemic period, we've seen a huge tourism boom to Japan that's been fueled by the weak yen, so that may be related as well.

此外我认为很明显，以视觉呈现为主的社交媒体，特别是Instagram和TikTok，发挥了重要作用。

And then I think it's definitely clear that social media, especially Instagram and TikTok, that are very visual, have played a significant role.

我是说，告诉我哪里还能买到看起来如此华丽魔幻的草莓抹茶饮品。你肯定会心动

I mean, tell me where you can get a strawberry matcha that looks this majestic and magical. You're gonna listen

不难理解为何如此，因为你面前这杯饮品呈现出美丽的鲜绿色。对吧？看看它。

And it's not hard to understand why because you have you have this beautiful bright green beverage. Right? Look at her.

它真美。作为创作者我感到无比自豪。

She is beautiful. I'm a proud mother.

视觉上非常赏心悦目，看起来清新自然。

It's aesthetically pleasing. It kind of looks fresh. It looks natural.

这样制作的抹茶对你的肠道、皮肤、头发和指甲都极有益处。所有这些——

This is how you're gonna make a matcha that's amazing for your gut, skin, hair, and nails. All of the

我们联想到的健康元素。我戒掉咖啡改喝抹茶三十天后，以下是发生的变化。

things that we associate with healthfulness. I cut out coffee for thirty days and switched to matcha, and here's what happened.

放松，冷静，深呼吸，来杯抹茶吧。

Relax, chill, breathe, have a matcha.

人们还借鉴了日本茶道的美学，这种极简又时髦的方式。所以我认为，抹茶的流行融合了酷日本/东亚文化的吸引力、抹茶本身的健康属性，以及社交媒体的推波助澜。

And then people are also borrowing from the aesthetics of Japanese tea ceremony in this way that looks sort of minimalist and trendy. So I think it's all, like, tied together in this sort of cool Japan slash appeal of East Asian culture with the healthiness, healthfulness of matcha, and then the just the role of social media.

我们是否了解日本人对西方接纳他们珍视的饮品有何看法？

Do we know what the Japanese think of the Western adoption of their cherished drink?

有趣的是，我认为全球抹茶热潮中的一些现象不仅限于西方，实际上日本也在发生，并且日本的影响力也参与其中。我想到的主要群体是茶道修行者——那些进入日本茶道学校学习的人，他们一直是日本国内外抹茶饮用的核心人群。在这个群体中，许多人感到既困惑又沮丧。

So what's interesting is that I would say some of the stuff that's happening in the global matchup boom, it's not just confined to the West. It's actually also happening in Japan, and Japanese influences are involved in it as well. I would say that the main group I would be thinking about is people who are tea practitioners. So people who enroll in a school of Japanese tea ceremony and study it because they have always been the core matcha drinkers both inside and outside Japan. And so among that group, like, a lot of us are feeling that kind of bemusement and but also frustration.

我们某种程度上在等待这股热潮稍退，好让抹茶价格回归正常。但与此同时，我们也希望分享知识，只是希望人们能对理解这种注重正念、营造宁静氛围的文化实践更感兴趣，这与全球抹茶热潮中的现象截然不同。

And, like, we're kind of waiting for the boom to die a little bit so we can just go back to, like, the normal matcha prices. But at the same time, I think we also feel like we want to share our knowledge with people, and we just wish people were perhaps a little more interested in understanding this cultural practice that focuses on mindfulness and creating an atmosphere of peacefulness and tranquility, which is quite different from what's happening in the global macha boom.

南加州大学历史学者丽贝卡·科比特博士，为棕熊队喝彩。不仅是抹茶，还有迪拜巧克力和Labubu盲盒。为何TikTok趋势似乎越来越无规律可循？我们将在《今日解说》中继续探讨。

Doctor Rebecca Corbett, History USC, go Bruins. It's not just matcha, it's also Dubai chocolate and Labubu. Why the TikTok trends seem to be getting more and more random when we're back on Today Explained.

什么造就幸福人生？1938年，哈佛科学家开始追踪250多名年轻人的福祉以寻找答案。近90年后，研究结果终于揭晓。

What makes for a happy life? In 1938, scientists at Harvard started tracking the well-being of over two fifty young people to figure that out. Now, almost ninety years later, the results are in.

持续学习是关键。那些不断阅读、热爱学习的人，随着年龄增长幸福感显著更高。善于管理情绪的人也表现出色。

There was learning. People who learned and read and read and read and liked to learn. They were much happier as they got older. People who are really good at managing their feelings.

但有项发现超越其他所有因素。我是亨利·布洛杰特，本周《解决方案》节目中，我与畅销书作家亚瑟·布鲁克斯探讨了幸福科学。欢迎在任意播客平台订阅《亨利·布洛杰特的解决方案》获取更多内容。福克斯创意出品。

But there was one thing that stood above all the rest. I'm Henry Blodgett, and this week on solutions, I talked to bestselling author Arthur Brooks about the science of happiness. Follow solutions with Henry Blodgett for more wherever you get your podcasts. Fox Creative.

这是来自Mel Nylon的广告内容。

This is advertiser content from Mel Nylon.

喂？史密斯女士，很高兴联系到您。您的检测结果已经出来了。

Hello? Miss Smith, I'm glad I reached you. We have your test results.

我们都害怕那通可能改变一切的电话。因为与疾病共处会彻底扰乱生活，带来无尽的喧嚣。持续不断的检查、按时服药、晦涩的医学术语、适应新常态的心理挣扎。不知不觉中，日常生活的乐趣退居次席，而你的新常态变成了与症状抗争。如果有一种方法能从源头消除疾病，让你重拾生活中最美好的部分，减轻疾病负担，会怎样呢？

We all dread the phone call that could change everything. Because living with disease can be life altering and noisy. The constant tests, staying on top of medications, the medical jargon, the mental way of learning your new normal. Before you know it, the everyday joys of life take a backseat and your new normal becomes managing your symptoms. What if there was a way to silence disease at the source so you could get back to the best parts of life and ease the burdens of disease?

Alnylam制药公司开创了一类利用RNA干扰技术来沉默致病基因的药物。这种创新的疾病治疗方法已经帮助全球数千人活出更精彩的人生。而这仅仅是个开始。了解更多关于RNAi疗法和Alnylam的科学成果，请访问silencedisease.com。Alnylam。

Alnylam Pharmaceuticals has pioneered a class of medicines that use RNA interference to silence genes that cause or contribute to disease. This innovative approach to treating disease is already helping thousands of people around the world live amplified lives. And it's just the beginning. Learn more about RNAi therapeutics and Alnylam's science at silencedisease.com. Alnylam.

消除疾病。放大生活。

Silenced Disease. Amplify life.

本期节目由Vanta赞助播出。如果你的认知能被合规自动化颠覆，那就让Vanta来颠覆你的认知吧——Vanta如是说。Vanta是一个信任管理平台，自称能帮助企业自动化安全与合规流程。向客户和潜在客户展示可信度对达成交易至关重要。虽然我并不了解这些。

Support for today's show comes from Vanta. If your mind can be blown by compliance automation, let Vanta blow your mind, says Vanta. Vanta is a trust management platform that says they help businesses automate security and compliance. Demonstrating trust to customers and prospects is critical to closing deal. I wouldn't know.

以上是Vanta的观点。但合规也可能既昂贵又复杂。Vanta表示他们能帮助各种规模的企业——大型、小型、中型——快速实现合规并持续保持，这得益于行业领先的AI自动化和您熟知的持续监控功能。无论您是初创公司首次应对SOC2或ISO27001认证，还是企业处理供应商风险，Vanta声称其信任管理平台能让流程更快捷、更简单、更具扩展性。Vanta还表示能帮助您将安全问卷填写速度提升五倍，从而更快赢得大额交易。

That's according to Vanta. But it can also be costly and complicated. Vanta says they help companies of all sizes, large, small, medium, get compliant fast and stay that way with industry leading AI automation and that continuous monitoring you do know so well. So whether you're a startup tackling your first SOC two or ISO 27,001 or an enterprise managing vendor risk, Vanta says their trust management platform makes it quicker, easier, and more scalable. Vanta also says they help you complete security questionnaires up to five times faster, which could help you win those bigger deals sooner.

您可以访问vanta.com/explain立即注册免费演示。网址是vanta.com/explained。

You can visit vanta.com/explain to sign up for a free demo today. That's vanta.com/explained.

我的

My

我叫阿曼达·马尔，是《彭博商业周刊》的高级记者，负责撰写关于消费文化的'购买力'专栏。

name is Amanda Mull. I'm a senior reporter at Bloomberg Businessweek, and I write our buying power column about consumer culture.

而你报道了一组在夏季异常火爆的奇特商品。

And you wrote about a strange group of items that had a very big summer.

其实这要完全归功于Z世代网民，他们自发创造了这组潮流趋势。抹茶拿铁与迪拜巧克力

Well, I have to give full credit for this to Zoomer Internet users who sort of created this grouping of of trends on their own. The matcha lattes go along with Dubai chocolate

爆红的迪拜巧克力棒。

Viral Dubai chocolate bars.

还有布布鞋

And the boo boos

天啊。这可是个秘密。

Oh my gosh. This is a secret.

还有《爱情岛》的本森·布恩。然后，你知道的，你可以从这里开始发散联想。

And Love Island Benson Boone. And, you know, you can sort of, spiral out from there.

嘘，小抹茶别哭。一切都会好起来的，本森·布恩，碎饼干。啦啵啵嘟拜。

Hush little matcha. Don't you cry. Everything's gonna be Benson Boom, crumble cookie. La boo boo doo bye.

这组最近的怪异趋势，我认为，反映了消费品潮流周期变得多么荒诞。要知道，过去潮流总显得有点古怪，因为普通人并不真正了解那些突然无处不在的东西究竟从何而来。就像《穿普拉达的女王》里关于天蓝色的那段戏——你不知道的是，那件毛衣并非

This set of, like, like, weird recent trends, I think, is indicative of how weird the trend cycles have gotten in consumer goods. You know, in the past, trends have forever seemed a little bit weird because the average person doesn't have, like, a ton of insight on, like, where something ultimately came from that is suddenly everywhere. You know, in the devil wears Prada, the scene about cerulean. What you don't know is that that sweater is not

普通的蓝色。不是松石绿，也不是青金石色。它其实是天蓝色。

just blue. It's not turquoise. It's not lapis. It's actually cerulean.

而蓝色毛衣某种程度上展示了这种动态关系，这种现象已存在很久了。

And blue sweaters sort of, demonstrates that dynamic, and that's existed for a long time.

可笑的是你以为自己做出了选择就能置身时尚产业之外，实际上你穿的毛衣不过是这个房间里的人从一堆东西里为你挑出来的。

And it's sort of comical how you think that you've made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when in fact you're wearing a sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room from a pile of stuff.

但深究起来，过去几十年消费品中许多看似随机的流行趋势，只要稍加挖掘就能找到相当简单的解释。而近年的趋势似乎与整体文化间的关联性比以往更弱，这真实反映了流行趋势的生成方式、人们认知事物的途径以及消费动机的转变。我认为LaBubu盲盒、抹茶拿铁、迪拜巧克力、Benson Boone音乐、crumble饼干等几乎同时涌现的事物，都是这一现象的典型案例。

But when you get down to it, a lot of, like, sort of random seeming trends in consumer goods from decades past have, like, a pretty easy way to explain them if you dig a little bit. Trends recently seem to have, like, even less connective tissue to culture at large than they used to, which is a real change trends are produced, how people become aware of things, why people buy things. And I I think that LaBubu's and matcha lattes and Dubai chocolate and Benson Boone and crumble cookies and and all of these things are sort of, that have arisen at, like, sort of the same time to each other are are good examples of this phenomenon.

那么迪拜巧克力、抹茶拿铁、LaBubu酒饮、Benson Boone这些事物的共同点，就是它们都有些怪异，并且都在一个名为TikTok的奇特生态系统中获得关注？

So what binds all these things together, Dubai chocolate, matcha latte, La Boo Booze, Benson Boon, is that they're kinda weird, and they all are getting noticed in a kinda weird ecosystem called TikTok?

没错。很大程度上是TikTok推动的。但总体而言，我认为这是算法社交媒体的现象。因为当你在这些平台上互动或接触内容时，几乎没有任何背景信息。你失去了了解文化新事物的传统途径——无论是口耳相传还是传统媒体的传播。

Yes. A lot of this is TikTok fueled. But in general, this, I think, is a phenomenon of algorithmic social media. Because you when you interact with with things on these platforms, when you're presented with things on these platforms, you have, like, very little context. So you don't have the sort of traditional methods of learning about new pieces of culture, whether that's like word-of-mouth or dissemination through traditional media.

你只是被动接收一系列毫无上下文、与其他事物也毫无真正关联的内容。

You just have a series of things that you're presented with with no context and no, connective tissue to anything else, really.

24K黄金抹茶Labubu迪拜巧克力Benson Boone光束。你还没反应过来吗

Matcha 24 karat Labubu Dubai Chocolate Bents and Boonbeam. It's not clocking to you

我正站在月光上。

that I'm standing on moonbeams.

准备好跟我一起尝试新款黄金Labubu迪拜巧克力抹茶拿铁、月光冰淇淋、波霸crumble饼干，以及我每两周一次的日本之旅吧。

Get ready with me to try the new Golden Labubu Dubai Chocolate Matcha Latte, Moonbeam ice cream, boba crumble cookie, and my biweekly trip to Japan.

这意味着那些流行起来、最终被广大观众看到的事物，其源头、为何能吸引如此多人的兴趣，或其背后的意义，都极难追溯。

And that means that the things that catch on, the things that end up getting seen by a large audience, it's very, very difficult to trace where they came from, why they became interesting to so many people, or what any of it means.

算法确实像是一种合理解释，说明这些随机事物如何席卷了整个夏天。但你在文章中提到，类似的事物以前也曾流行过。我认为最典型的例子不是Benson Boone，而是豆豆娃，因为它与Labubu极为相似。而这一切发生在算法时代之前——虽然算法当时已存在，但远非如今这般主导。

The algorithm certainly feels like a helpful explanation of how these random things sort of took the summer by storm. But I think you write in your piece about the fact that, like, we have seen stuff like these things become popular before. Like, I think the best example might be not Benson Boone, but like the Beanie Baby because it's so close to a Labubu. And that happened, of course, in an age before algorithms. Was I think algorithms existed, just not the guides we have now.

没错。那么当时的差异是什么？为什么豆豆娃会在那时风靡？

Right. What was the difference then? And and and and why did Beanie Babies happen then?

是的。豆豆娃的故事很耐人寻味，它们看似随机、凭空出现且独一无二。但实际上完美展示了传统趋势如何在文化中传播：作为收藏品出现在礼品店和文具店，由一家小型玩具公司通过制造虚假稀缺性、限量版等经典营销手段来刺激销量。

Yeah. Well, Beanie Babies are a fascinating story because they seem so random and so from nowhere and so one of one. But they're actually a really good demonstration of how trends are traditionally disseminated through culture. They came around as collectibles sold in gift shops and stationary stores by a, you know, a relatively small toy company who was looking to increase sales by, you know, stoking demand through the sort of traditional, well known marketing tactics of, you know, false scarcity and limited editions and things like that.

关于豆豆娃热潮的速成课：Ty公司制作了这些以动物命名的玩偶（目前还没真菌系列），然后逐一停产。

Here's a quick lesson on this beanie craze. A company called Ty makes them, releases them with different names. They're all named after something, an animal, an animal basically. They haven't done like funguses. Then retires them one at a time.

它们本是商场里随手可买的平价儿童玩具，如今却成了收藏家追捧的对象。

Because they were an inexpensive item you could pick up at the mall for your child. And now they're become collector's items.

但它们真正爆发是因为同期eBay的兴起。美国人突然意识到：任何人都能在家向全国转售物品，甚至靠这个辞掉日常工作。

But they really took off because eBay was launching at the same time. So Americans were presented with this idea that anybody could resell anything to anybody else in the country, and you could do it from home, and you could, you know, quit your day job by selling random stuff.

从医生、律师，到普通的白领、蓝领工人，他们都想要豆豆娃。

From doctors, lawyers, just regular white collar, blue collar workers, and they all want Beanie Babies.

但这不可爱吗？你更想要什么？一辆车？一辆新车还是小象花生？

But isn't isn't that cute? What would you rather have? A car? A new car or Peanut the elephant?

豆豆娃就像是一种金融工具，是对新型商业模式的回应，这才是真正推动它们的原因。

Beanie Babies is like a financial instrument that was the response to a a new type of commerce, that's what really fueled them.

那这和LaBubu现象相比如何呢？

And how does that compare then to, like, the LaBubu thing?

嗯，LaBubu现象有点意思，因为在传统的潮流环境中，比如豆豆娃，你买卖的东西是否真实真的很重要。

Well, the LaBubu thing is sort of fascinating because in the sort of traditional trend environment, like with Beanie Babies, it really mattered if the thing you were selling or buying was real.

这是真品证书，就在这里。对吧？

Here's the here's the certificate of authenticity right here. Right?

没错。

Correct.

这不正是当下人们所需要的吗？

And this is what people need nowadays, isn't it?

嗯，如果他们买的是昂贵的豆豆帽，这主意倒不错。

Well, it's a good idea if they're buying an expensive beanie.

本期视频我将对比正版泰国豆豆娃恐龙Bronte与两只盗版Bronte。

In this video, I'm comparing a authentic Thai Beanie Baby Bronte the dinosaur versus two counterfeit brontes.

人们曾对玩偶持有某种理性信念——注意我说的理性并非指合理。但他们的确存在足够理性的理由，愿意为特定玩偶支付特定价格。而Lububus热潮里几乎看不到这种逻辑，实际上市场对正版Lububus有着真实需求。

People had sort of, like, rational beliefs about and by rational, I don't I don't mean reasonable. Let me be clear. But they had they had reasons that were rational enough for for wanting particular dolls at particular prices. With the Lububus, there's not quite so much of that at all. In fact, it there's very real demand for real Lububus.

但与此同时，被戏称为'拉夫夫'的仿品市场却爆炸式增长。这股狂热源于人们只想把这些小物件别在衣服上，本质上与LaBooBoo玩偶本身无关。

But alongside them, the market for fakes, which are, you know, adorably called lafufus, has really exploded. The craze is fueled by people just wanting to clip one of these things onto their outfits. It's not about the LaBooBoo's themselves, really.

这些古怪潮流是否还有另一个共同点——它们都带点幼稚感？我们讨论的可是甜点、玩具和Benson Boone这类东西。

Is that something else that binds all these weird trends together that they're all kind of I don't like, no judgment, but like a little infantile? We're talking about, like, sweet treats and toys and Benson Boone? Yeah.

确实如此。算法驱动的社交平台会削弱人们理解内容背景的能力。当你不断刷到不明所以的内容，突然某样东西无处不在时，你就难以运用成熟情绪技能来克制反应——毕竟你只有瞬间做出反应。这就是为什么社交媒体上最火爆、互动量最高的内容往往具有高度刺激性：色彩鲜艳、令人垂涎、出格挑衅或令人愤慨——算法正需要这类能煽动用户参与的情绪反应。

I think so. The way that algorithmically mediated social platforms work is by sort of collapsing your capacity to understand the context of what you're looking at. And so if you're being served things that, like, you don't know why you're seeing this, you don't really know what it is, and then suddenly that thing is everywhere, you know, you sort of lose your capacity to use some of your more mature emotional skills to limit your reactions because you get sort of a split second to react to things. That is why stuff on social media tends to do the best and tends to get the most engagement if it's, like, highly stimulating, if it's colorful or incredibly delicious looking or outrageous or maddening or offensive. Like, these are the sort sort of like emotional reactions that the algorithmic social media values because they stoke engagement.

它们延长了人们在平台上的停留时间。因此，在这些环境中表现良好的内容往往是那些极具刺激性的。这意味着你会被推销大量主要面向儿童的商品，因为那些色彩斑斓、甜蜜可爱、充满乐趣的东西通常是为孩子们设计的。

They increase people's time on the platforms. So things that do well in these in these environments are sort of like maximally stimulating. And that means that you're gonna get sold a lot of things that are mostly sold to kids because the sort of like maximal, colorful, sweet, cuddly, fun stuff is, like, generally made for children.

阿曼达，你对这种现象怎么看？

How do we feel about that, Amanda?

你知道，我认为这相当糟糕。从文化角度来看，这对任何人都没有好处。但我认为，像La Boo Boo's、迪拜巧克力和抹茶拿铁等少数趋势能持续保持热度，也反映出平台使用者真实的需求——他们试图将网络生活和在线体验与现实生活、物理世界联系起来。嗯。因为这些本质上都是需要你起身离开家门去亲身体验的物品、事物或经历。

You know, I think that's pretty bad. I think that that's not doing anybody any favors culturally. But I think that the sort of like persistent interest in staying power in like a few of these trends, including La Boo Boo's, including Dubai Chocolate, including Matcha Lattes, I think is also, like, indicative of a real desire on the part of people who use these platforms to, like, try to make sense of the Internet and online life in, like, real life, in physical reality. Mhmm. Because these are all, by and large, these are all, like, objects or or things or experiences that, like, you need to, like, get up and leave your house and go have.

它们是存在于物理现实中，你正在寻找、试图获得或想要尝试的事物。我认为这些最终最能深入人心的东西，真实地表明人们仍渴望弥合线上与线下生活的裂痕。这两者已不再泾渭分明。我觉得某些病毒式传播的物件，正是人们在情感和智力上跨越这道他们时刻横跨的鸿沟的方式。这就像一种共识体验。

They are things that exist in physical reality that that you're looking for or trying to get or wanting to try. And I think that, like, that these are the things that ultimately go the furthest for people, I think is a real indication that there's still something that people want to do to reconcile their online lives with their offline lives. Those are not really separate anymore. And I think that some of these sort of like viral objects are a way for people to sort of like emotionally, intellectually, like, bridge that gap that they are constantly straddling. It's like a consensus experience.

当你喝着一杯抹茶拿铁时，你正在体验的是许多与你关注不同内容的人最近也有过的经历。我认为这给了人们一种参与感，让他们意识到手机里看到的东西是真实的。

You're if you're having a matcha latte, you are having an experience that a lot of people with a lot of different feeds than you have, like, also had recently. And it, I think, you know, gives people a little bit of a sense of participation and a sense of that the stuff they look at on their phone, like, is real.

这是好事吗？我们刚讨论过成人幼稚化是负面现象。但走出家门，把手机里看到的东西变成可触摸的共识现实，这对我们有好处吗？

And is that a good thing? I mean, we talked about, like, the infantilization of adults being a bad thing. But is getting out and making, I don't know, a thing you see on your phone a tangible consensus reality good for us?

我认为这是个积极信号，表明人们仍渴望些许共识现实，说明人们尚未完全被算法喂养的内容所支配。这显示出人们并不满足于仅在线上观看和参与。任何表明人们仍渴望正常线下社交体验的迹象，很可能都是积极的。

I think it's a positive indicator that people still want a little bit of consensus reality, that people aren't entirely sort of like feed brained at this point. I think it is indicative that people aren't, like, fully satisfied just with seeing things online and participating online. I think that any indicator that we have that people want to have normal physical social experiences with each other is probably a good one.

阿曼达·穆尔，祝你在bloomberg.com一切顺利。今天的节目由丹妮尔·休伊特制作。感谢Vox的肯德尔·坎宁安的协助。阿米娜·阿尔萨迪负责剪辑，帕特里克·博伊德进行混音。劳拉·布拉德坚持认为宇宙的笑点总是偏向于La boo boo。

Amanda Mull, have a good one at bloomberg.com. Danielle Hewitt produced our program today. Thanks to Kendall Cunningham at Vox for her help. Amina Alsadi edited Patrick Boyd mixed. Laura Bullard maintains that the funny bone of the universe bends towards La boo boo.

《今日解说》的其他成员还包括诺埃尔·金，以及彼得·瓦尔农·罗森、丹尼斯·格拉、阿比沙伊·阿齐、凯利·韦辛格、哈里·马瓦迪、阿里安娜·阿斯普鲁、德文·施瓦茨、阿德里安·利利和迈尔斯·布莱恩。我们的副执行制片人是乔利·迈尔斯，执行制片人是米兰达·肯尼迪。节目使用Breakmaster Cylinder的音乐。《今日解说》由WNYC发行。

The rest of Today Explained is Noel King, but also Peter Valnon Rosen, Denise Guerra, Abhishai Artsy, Kelly Wessinger, Hari Mawadi, Ariana Aspuru, Devin Schwartz, Adrian Lilley, and Miles Bryan. Our deputy executive producer is Joly Myers. Our executive executive producer is Miranda Kennedy. We use music by Breakmaster Cylinder. Today Explained is distributed by WNYC.

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